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Thread: Pulley/Fan Belt Welding Jig

  1. #11
    olderdan's Avatar
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    Captain
    This is a great idea, I have been using a V block but that tends to draw the heat to fast, this is a much better solution.
    I find the worst part is trimming of the flash, any idea's for that?.
    The fact that you have made the jig that length makes me think you maybe have other uses for it.

  2. #12
    mklotz mklotz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olderdan View Post
    Captain
    This is a great idea, I have been using a V block but that tends to draw the heat to fast, this is a much better solution.
    I had to weld a small Unimat-sized belt so I took a short length of angle iron and, in the middle, milled away a section so the belt ends, lying in the V of the angle iron were exposed in the milled slot. Pull them slightly apart and close them on a palette knife that's been heated. While pushing them together on the knife, slip the knife out and the two heated ends of belt are immediately pushed together. (An assistant is useful for this maneuver.)

    With the mid-section of the jig milled away the heat isn't sucked from the belts by the angle iron, yet the belt is closely supported so the alignment of the belt ends is good.

    A larger version might work for larger belts but I've never had occasion to try it.
    ---
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  4. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Captainleeward View Post
    Hi Paul, It is important to move the hot ends back together as quick as possible, With this machine the ends are mated perfect.
    Hello ED, urethane belts, they come any length you need and size on e-bay just type in urethane belts.

    Thanks to all for your interest....:O)
    Great idea Captain , as I also never thought of using urethane as a pulley belt.
    When heating ends , would it work easier if you added a thin flat blade to the tip of the soldering iron to act as a heating surface and then press the two cut ends together or use the thin blade as a cutting blade which also provided enough heat to allow fusion of the two cut surfaces..?

  5. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by olderdan View Post
    Captain
    This is a great idea, I have been using a V block but that tends to draw the heat to fast, this is a much better solution.
    I find the worst part is trimming of the flash, any idea's for that?.
    The fact that you have made the jig that length makes me think you maybe have other uses for it.
    Cutting off the flashing is done with a small flush cutting side cutter. I often use a die grinder with a white Al Ox Stone to clean up the weld after trimming with the cutters.

    The Belting is Fenner Eagle Orange PolyUrethane, and they actually make a welding kit for it, but I like the jig you made Captain

    Walter

  6. #15
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    This is called butt fusion.

    I was certified to do it on pe gas pipe upto 4".

    The homemade jig is something I have been thinking of doing, Thanks for posting.

    Ralph

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  8. #16
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    I've welded poly irrigation pipe with a similar apparatus... the main difference (other than scale) is that the alignment jig for the poly pipe has a lever that allows lateral force to be applied as you want a certain amount of squeeze-out, but not too much. Butt-fusion is the technical term for the process.

    In the video below, they're using an electrically heated plate... with the unit I used in the field, we used a plate that was heated via a standard propane torch... it had a dial thermometer built into the plate and a port into which the torch tip inserted.

    Last edited by IAMSatisfied; 03-23-2018 at 02:34 PM.

  9. #17
    Ed ke6bnl's Avatar
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    What heat source and how is it heated up?

  10. #18
    Soikkeli Tuomas's Avatar
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    Very interesting, thank you.

    You heat it just to the point that surface starts to melt, or longer that it starts dripping?

  11. #19
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    Generally there is some sort of heat block to melt the plastic.

    Ralph

  12. #20
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    Something similar I will now make to attach 3D Printer filament to use up the end of a roll....
    Thank You!!

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