You be welcome matey....:O)
Captainleeward (Oct 16, 2017)
I had to weld a small Unimat-sized belt so I took a short length of angle iron and, in the middle, milled away a section so the belt ends, lying in the V of the angle iron were exposed in the milled slot. Pull them slightly apart and close them on a palette knife that's been heated. While pushing them together on the knife, slip the knife out and the two heated ends of belt are immediately pushed together. (An assistant is useful for this maneuver.)
With the mid-section of the jig milled away the heat isn't sucked from the belts by the angle iron, yet the belt is closely supported so the alignment of the belt ends is good.
A larger version might work for larger belts but I've never had occasion to try it.
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Regards, Marv
Smart phones are to people what laser pointers are to cats
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a definition
Paul Jones (Oct 18, 2017), Tuomas (Mar 23, 2018)
Cutting off the flashing is done with a small flush cutting side cutter. I often use a die grinder with a white Al Ox Stone to clean up the weld after trimming with the cutters.
The Belting is Fenner Eagle Orange PolyUrethane, and they actually make a welding kit for it, but I like the jig you made Captain
Walter
IAMSatisfied (Mar 23, 2018)
I've welded poly irrigation pipe with a similar apparatus... the main difference (other than scale) is that the alignment jig for the poly pipe has a lever that allows lateral force to be applied as you want a certain amount of squeeze-out, but not too much. Butt-fusion is the technical term for the process.
In the video below, they're using an electrically heated plate... with the unit I used in the field, we used a plate that was heated via a standard propane torch... it had a dial thermometer built into the plate and a port into which the torch tip inserted.
Last edited by IAMSatisfied; Mar 23, 2018 at 01:34 PM.
Very interesting, thank you.
You heat it just to the point that surface starts to melt, or longer that it starts dripping?
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