Always struggle with edge glueing

**RODaknee6** · Jul 10, 2017, 07:18 PM

I own my own woodworking and CNC business and glue up a lot of panels. I have tried different ways but always end up with a lot of sanding.

**majnun** · Jul 11, 2017, 12:34 PM

Would you please describe the technique(s) you use currently? What exactly requires sanding? The boards don't line up? My low tech approach is to ensure the boards are all the same thickness. I make sure they touch the clamp all along its length to prevent cupping. I also clamp the outer edges of the boards to align them. If need be, I will run biscuits to align them also (I used this technique on 1-1/2" x 22" x 10' boards for a media center). There are double sided clamps which squeeze edgewise and lengthwise and align the boards as well. There is also floor mounted clamping system which allows you to stack the boards edgewise and clamp them along the length and width of the boards. I don't use dowels anymore as they are inclined to be misaligned. Often, especially with cutting boards, table tops and those previously mention 10' pieces, I will take them to a neighbor's shop with a width belt sander and pay him to sand them down to a uniform and flat surface. There is sanding, but only finish sanding.

**Brownieone** · Jul 11, 2017, 12:35 PM

I run the narrow panels through the planer. For wider I glue the planed narrow panels together and deal with fewer joints !

**majnun** · Jul 11, 2017, 01:31 PM

I have a 12" planer which limits the width of my glued up panels. I also prefer the wide belt sander over a planer because there is no tear out.

**RODaknee6** · Jul 12, 2017, 08:39 AM

I want to thank everyone for their responses.
I only edge glue pieces of the same thickness. The sanding that I spoke of comes from partial ridges coming from the glue line. I line them up, I use plenty of glue but they seem to always slip somewhere.
After drying I just take them to the sanding table and smooth out the joints.

Not every glue up ends this way but enough for me to want a better way.
I do not want to use dowels or biscuits.
The reason I joined and used this forum is that I wondered if anyone had a plan, or know where to buy, one of those units that are attached to the wall for edge glueing. It looks to me like it is the best way to control all the boards at one time.
I use panels for furniture I make and also for signs and such on my CNC.
I also hate to waste lumber so I usually edge glue smaller boards to make panels and small signs on the CNC.

**Big Mike71** · Jul 13, 2017, 12:03 PM

Hi,
Just a little info from a retired wood worker and large (4foot by 12 foot) CNC operator. The best you can do is to make sure you reverse annual growth rings up and down. that will minimize the your cupping. You will never get rid of ridges from gluing because the moisture in the glue will swell the edges. Commercial 4 ft. wide surface belt sanders are on the market. it is the best way to go if you are talking lots of large glue ups. If your CNC is large enough you would save time and money by just running a pass on the ridges to make them as close to finish size as you can to cut down on wear on large belts. You have options but more info on sizes you deal with and machine capability would allow us to give more pertinent information.

**RODaknee6** · Jul 13, 2017, 12:51 PM

Thank you BigMike71
I thank you for your reply.
I was getting very close to retirement with a large chemical company when they pulled operations from this area.
I guess you can say, I kinda went to my lifetime love of woodworking to try to make a living. Hasn't been easy but still plugging away.
I do watch my growth rings closely and about everything I can to get it right but still not where I want to be with this.
I use 95% local hardwoods that I buy from local sources rough. I then plane down to sizes I need. Planer is only 15" maximum width which makes most glue-ups out of the question for planing to finish after glue up.
Most of my glue ups are for sides and backs of finish cabinetry, dressers and such but I also do smaller glue ups for some signs and such on my CNC.
I do have a 4x8 CNC and will most definitely try your suggestions.
Just for reference, I also do a lot of signmaking and murals with the CNC but using sign foams.
I try to use my CNC as much as possible since I love working with it. The time savings and amazing things it can do also keep me near it.
Again, thank you so much!

**Rpons** · Jul 13, 2017, 03:41 PM

Hi, the suggestions above cover most of the ground. I accept that I will have to smooth the edges so I make sure my design and fabrication allows me to have one good face. The hidden face just needs to be functional i.e. hold a frame or a rail. I also use wafers registered to the good face to help align.

**aaron0641** · Jul 15, 2017, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by RODaknee6

Thank you BigMike71
I thank you for your reply.
I was getting very close to retirement with a large chemical company when they pulled operations from this area.
I guess you can say, I kinda went to my lifetime love of woodworking to try to make a living. Hasn't been easy but still plugging away.
I do watch my growth rings closely and about everything I can to get it right but still not where I want to be with this.
I use 95% local hardwoods that I buy from local sources rough. I then plane down to sizes I need. Planer is only 15" maximum width which makes most glue-ups out of the question for planing to finish after glue up.
Most of my glue ups are for sides and backs of finish cabinetry, dressers and such but I also do smaller glue ups for some signs and such on my CNC.
I do have a 4x8 CNC and will most definitely try your suggestions.
Just for reference, I also do a lot of signmaking and murals with the CNC but using sign foams.
I try to use my CNC as much as possible since I love working with it. The time savings and amazing things it can do also keep me near it.
Again, thank you so much!

Several have mentioned the use of big Bessey and Jet clamps though I didn't see anyone suggesting using cauls across the surface to keep the boards aligned. Sanding/scraping/planing are necessary if for no other reason than humidity changes and how the wood responds to the glue used. If you do choose to use cauls, try them with a very slight curve so that they don't bow at the edges of the glue-up under clamp pressure. Good luck.

**klrock** · Jul 16, 2017, 06:11 AM

Originally Posted by aaron0641

Several have mentioned the use of big Bessey and Jet clamps though I didn't see anyone suggesting using cauls across the surface to keep the boards aligned. Sanding/scraping/planing are necessary if for no other reason than humidity changes and how the wood responds to the glue used. If you do choose to use cauls, try them with a very slight curve so that they don't bow at the edges of the glue-up under clamp pressure. Good luck.

I agree with this caul method. Not only is this the low cost option, but the cauls can be made as large as you need them. A larger caul will need more curvature to be effective. The amount of curvature depends on the length and bending strength of the caul wood. Some more info can be found here (How to Make Cambered Cauls - FineWoodworking) and other sites.