Always struggle with edge glueing

[MadDrFrank]

The clamps of the type mentioned are available from Amazon as well as many other suppliers -- search Plano Clamps -- there may be other makes.

To secure initial alignment, the most apt approach for this forum is to use a traditional method and make you own -- a few flat (or VERY slightly bowed) cross cauls pressing on the faces of the planks and tightened alternately with the main clamps which draw the planks together thus keeping the joint aligned while compressing the glue line. Pads between the cross-cauls and the joint are another possibility.

If the glue causes swelling along the joint, sanding this flat may leave a dip after the timber dries out, not ideal for reputation. Options: (1) leave the glued-up board to dry before use, (2) use less glue (there should be no question of gap-filling), (3) use a non-aqueous glue. Modern glues are very varied, you might want to consider matters such as long-term creep, which could take the joints out of alignment after several years.

On the "use less glue" point you will find lengthy discussions online about "glue starved" joints, clamping pressure, etc. My own take is that if you notice obvious glue-related swelling the joints are too wet; for a well made edge joint very little glue should be necessary, and no feasible amount of clamping pressure would suffice to force all the glue out. You might also consider rubbed joints with hide glue, which will enable you (with practice) to use very little glue, and align the joint before it goes off. No clamps needed at all.

I am an amateur, so have no experience trying to make a living at this, but I gather many professional makers use alignment aids such as biscuits not for strength, but to ensure speedy and accurate gluing. Time is money (well, you know that don't you) :-) , so perhaps reconsider biscuits?

The one tool I have not seen mentioned is a simple hand plane. Ideal for trimming any bumps which are too big for the scraper.

[RODaknee6]

Thank you for your reply.
Each of the suggestions you give I have used with some good results.
I am mainly after the name of the clamps and you give it here so I thank you again.
I may have to do this for a living but I am the first to confess that I have much yet to learn and I thank you for your advice !

[wormil]

If boards are slipping up and down, you need c-clamps and deep reach c-clamps. If your panel is too large for that then you may have to move to a fix you don't want. But even clamping the ends together with c-clamps goes a long way.

[Partimer]

If you let the glue tack up for a couple of minutes, The slippage will be minimal. As far as sanding, it never goes away.

[frances-ho]

ok? i'd make sure to have the jointed edges done , then to make wider panels, make you own panel clamps to align the panels alternating of which side the clamps are on bottom - top - bottom alternating until you have enough clamps for the length of panel. the biscuit joint is good .

[Caliper Ken]

Something not yet mentioned is using a laminate trimmer with a flush trim bit - these have a bearing that runs on the surface of the panel while the cutter trims high spots
Ken

[aaron0641]

Thank you BigMike71
I thank you for your reply.
I was getting very close to retirement with a large chemical company when they pulled operations from this area.
I guess you can say, I kinda went to my lifetime love of woodworking to try to make a living. Hasn't been easy but still plugging away.
I do watch my growth rings closely and about everything I can to get it right but still not where I want to be with this.
I use 95% local hardwoods that I buy from local sources rough. I then plane down to sizes I need. Planer is only 15" maximum width which makes most glue-ups out of the question for planing to finish after glue up.
Most of my glue ups are for sides and backs of finish cabinetry, dressers and such but I also do smaller glue ups for some signs and such on my CNC.
I do have a 4x8 CNC and will most definitely try your suggestions.
Just for reference, I also do a lot of signmaking and murals with the CNC but using sign foams.
I try to use my CNC as much as possible since I love working with it. The time savings and amazing things it can do also keep me near it.
Again, thank you so much!

Several have mentioned the use of big Bessey and Jet clamps though I didn't see anyone suggesting using cauls across the surface to keep the boards aligned. Sanding/scraping/planing are necessary if for no other reason than humidity changes and how the wood responds to the glue used. If you do choose to use cauls, try them with a very slight curve so that they don't bow at the edges of the glue-up under clamp pressure. Good luck.

[Blackbeard]

I use a combination of clamps and biscuits. I have standard pipe clamps to compress the joints and use parallel clamps to maintain flatness of the panels. Biscuits are used to align and strengthen the joints as I clamp them up. I don't think there is a way to escape all the sanding. Parallel clamps on ends and equally spaced in middle.I have some from ShopSmith that clamp in both directions and work great. Also made some out of perforated angle iron, bolts and wing nuts that work great for the ends.

[klrock]

Several have mentioned the use of big Bessey and Jet clamps though I didn't see anyone suggesting using cauls across the surface to keep the boards aligned. Sanding/scraping/planing are necessary if for no other reason than humidity changes and how the wood responds to the glue used. If you do choose to use cauls, try them with a very slight curve so that they don't bow at the edges of the glue-up under clamp pressure. Good luck.

I agree with this caul method. Not only is this the low cost option, but the cauls can be made as large as you need them. A larger caul will need more curvature to be effective. The amount of curvature depends on the length and bending strength of the caul wood. Some more info can be found here (How to Make Cambered Cauls - FineWoodworking) and other sites.