Brick laying machine GIF

[Toolmaker51]

I don't recall types of masonry in Asia, just plaster and whatever they call adobe.
Hereabouts, celled [hollow] brick was used in basements. Mine happens to be normal brick, hollow are out numbered by stone, in older homes; very few of spec [speculative] construction. New work is poured concrete in custom or spec builds.

[G.Paul]

That's a nice tool but how bout the end joints. I would call that a slop box. I made one for taping drywall

[ranald]

I don't recall types of masonry in Asia, just plaster and whatever they call adobe.
Hereabouts, celled [hollow] brick was used in basements. Mine happens to be normal brick, hollow are out numbered by stone, in older homes; very few of spec [speculative] construction. New work is poured concrete in custom or spec builds.

The Thai ones weren't celled & they didn't have a frog (divot for better adhesion)either. Guess one could do tight curves without cutting with hammer & bolster or grinder.

[PJs]

That's a fine idea. Not hard to replicate or use. A DIY'er can see, only the adjustments for thickness/ width of mortar bed [and volume of box] as minor issues. The demonstration lacks how they get a wet edge and finish joints; sufficient mortar is a requirement.
Attachment 25890
Masonry joints deteriorate, especially those which retain a moisture deposit. It's obvious how it occurs in raked or struck, despite tool provides smooth mortar. Flush joints are quick, but remaining surface is porous.

Would enjoy cinderblock fence after connecting single apartment with building. Gauge Hall, as it may become known, will deserve a secure perimeter. Delivering mortar as the GIF shows gets project [linear 250' 76m] back in DIY realm.

Nice graphic depiction TM51 and good explanations. Joint names seem logical to me now! Thanks! Could be added to Franks "useful charts or calculators for working metals and other materials" Thread, imho.

[Toolmaker51]

<video controls autoplay loop>
<source src="https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/hmt-forum/brick_mortar_laying_tool.mp4" type="video/mp4">
Your browser does not support the video tag.
</video>

Revisiting this, as having crossed the DIY'er mind more than once, a test version needs adjustable 'shutter(s)'. This would help to determine what size opening works to flow proper ratio of water/mortar mix. It might not do end joints, but time saved troweling horizontally looks worthwhile. Getting wet beads on wet block requires timing and staged materials. Easier at ground level first 5-6 feet high, w-a-y harder on scaffolding.
My intents enclosing 2 existing walls 20' x 40' and 18' high.
This is better than youtube versions; no clickbait, just a cement manufacturers video on wall building. Short and sweet.
https://www.quikrete.com/athome/video-blockwall.asp

[Peter Sanders]

Bricklaying doesn't work like that!!
A structure built like that with brick just laid on top of that flat surface will be VERY UNSAFE!
The reason bricks have holes create a bond of mortar BETWEEN the bricks, or if the brick is recessed is for the mortar to be slightly displaced and create a mild vacuum between the bricks and to allow the finishing of the joint.
As viewed in the image there seems to be NO (or very little) mortar between the ends of the bricks.

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME! DO NOT MAKE YOURSELF A DEVICE TO REPLICATE THIS, IT IS UNSAFE!!

[G.Paul]

Its a good tool to have and simple to make mortar is still needed on the end of the bricks

[Frank S]

Most Bricks laid in the USA are done as a siding over a frame house or on a commercial building as decorative siding as well.
I heard people say they live in a brick home. NO they live in a wood frame stick built house with brick siding usually with the bricks laid leaving a 1 to 2" dead air space between the bricks and the outside wall to allow for the slight movement of thermal expansion, contraction and the dissipation of moisture, this is also why every so often on the bottom course the mortar will be left out of an end joint the bricks are held in place on the walls by the use of lathing strips placed every so often.
Yes the holes or depressions in the face of some bricks do actually add to the overall strength of the siding but the holes are mostly there as a way to make more bricks out of less material and to get a better kiln firing to harden them. some brands of bricks will actually float if sealed in a plastic bag.

[ranald]

Most Bricks laid in the USA are done as a siding over a frame house or on a commercial building as decorative siding as well.
I heard people say they live in a brick home. NO they live in a wood frame stick built house with brick siding usually with the bricks laid leaving a 1 to 2" dead air space between the bricks and the outside wall to allow for the slight movement of thermal expansion, contraction and the dissipation of moisture, this is also why every so often on the bottom course the mortar will be left out of an end joint the bricks are held in place on the walls by the use of lathing strips placed every so often.
Yes the holes or depressions in the face of some bricks do actually add to the overall strength of the siding but the holes are mostly there as a way to make more bricks out of less material and to get a better kiln firing to harden them. some brands of bricks will actually float if sealed in a plastic bag.

Hi Frank,

Most of our homes are like yours & are referred to as "brick veneer". My current home (bought constructed) is solid brick (one solid wall core filled like concrete block) where as the previous home (I owner built & designed) was cavity brick : the internal brick wall had a hardwood topplate (3" by 3") so that there was no dead space and the air could circulate as the temperature heats & cools. Didn't even need a fan let alone an air con or heater. Most cavety brick homes have a topplate spanning the cavity preventing the air to flow into the roof cavety above the ceiling and hot air can only exit through a suffit (if there is one) and this is very inefficient. We have gone stupid over here on various insulation types when most of the answer is creating a natural circulation.

The lathing strips that hold veneer to timber frame, over here, have a few crimps in the flat to encourage water to DRIP into the dead space then run out the weep holes: We call them veneer ties. For cavety brick work we hace a different "cavity tie" which is like heavy wire (not flat) and it also has a kink in each side for water that finds its way into the cavity: of course there is a top & a bottom or gravity wouldn't work. The weep holes(end joints) have to be big enough to allow tropical storm water to exit the space, after seeping through the porous bricks,or fascias etc, between the wall sections and small enough to prevent mice, snakes and other vermon entering and fouling the space. We can have 14" of rain over night or 70 mm in ten minutes so have to cater for that.

The regular spacing (governed by the cyclone code & the layer) of the wall ties is imperative for the full strength of the structure to resist the suck and push of strong winds. Many folk are unaware of the forces on a sail where the wind has about 30 to 40 percent push blowing the sail and about 60 to 70 percent sucking the sail: similar for houses walls & roofs. When obtaining an agrictural licence for hand spraying & distribution of chemicals & poisons it is important to stand/walk correctly relative to the slight breese or no brease due to that phenomenon. Side on spraying reduces the suck area caused by the body & some eroneously think its better to have their backs to the breeze. In the scenareo with no breeze is very dangerous as any fine spray should be totally avoided as the mist hangs in the air : strong winds, of course, causes too much drift of the chemical like overspray from a spray gun.

[Frank S]

ranald, sometimes trying to teach an architect about the benefits and indeed necessity of natural convection air flow in outer wall construction is like trying to get a chicken to lay square eggs.
getting the ties wrong will cause the moisture to collect on them. over time they become nothing but flakes of rust then a good wind as you say the negative pressure of the blow will suck the veneer right off the wall.
A few years back there was a really old building in a city here in Texas that had the hysterical preservation society of well wishers busy bodies and do gooders all in a tizzy because their beloved ruins actually became a ruins nearly killing a host of tourist while they were admiring the building..
Apparently what had happened sometime around 70 to 90 years ago the stone and non fired brick walled building had begun to show its age. So someone got the bright idea to cover the sides with the modern for the time brick facade or veneer on the side facing the street. With the passage of time what ever was used to tie the bricks to the side of the building if indeed there had been anything deteriorated a 40 MPH gust of wind at just the right angle and just the right time brought a 20 ft high 80 ft long wall to the sidewalk. The hysterical society even tried to sue the city for allowing the building's wall to collapse. At least now it is a nice safe flat parking lot.