Thank you Paul, I am not out of the woods yet. I have yet to figure out how to turn the servos on and off. When I plug in the system, the drives are powered up and can't disengage the servos. Sergey is working on that now and today I will dig into the Granite Divices docs. to see how they are controlled. I should be able to take the system out of E stop and then engage the servos, but they are always on. I am going to try, through the CNC forum, to find someone that has the same setup as I have. I will be making molds for 1:32 model locomotives and passenger cars and whatever else I can think of. Thanks again for everyone's interest, Bob.
I finally calibrated my axis' and here is what happened. In settings you choose an axis and make a move, in my case at first 1 inch. I am glad that I didn't choose a higher number because at 1 inch, it moved 12 inches. After the first correction, I repeated the calibration move several times going then to 4 inches. The ratio turned out to be around 665 of a correction factor. After about 6 corrective moves, when I put in 4.000 inches, it moved 4.000 inches. That was for x axis. When repeating the procedure for the Y axis, the best that I could get was .004 inches off of desired move. Also, the servo was making a funny noise. I had a new 40 in. slide, but the only thing wrong with it was it had a brake on the servo. Well I took that servo out and replaced it with a servo that had no brake. The servo that I used was my test servo. Then I proceded to remove the old slide, and found that I had not secured the locating pins, nor had I tightened the bolts holding the slide in position. I did that when I installed it so that I could align the slides for the axis, but forgot to tighten them. That accounted for the sloppy readings for the calibration. I installed the new slide with the new ballscrews and inserted the pins and tightened everything up and reran the test. I input 4.000 inches and it returned 4.000 inches, close enough. Now for the Z axis, that was the easiest to do, because all I had to do is zero the calipers and then measure the move. At first , I couldn't get any closer than .004 inches, but after several moves obtained a move of 3.9995, couldn't get any better than that for some reason, but again, close enough. So now I have to find some source for learning how to configure CNC items to one another, because Sergey has alot going on and It is about time that I learned more about configuring different systems into my Mach3 controller, such as the Pokey buttons, and a Pokeys pendant. I have no idea how or where to get this information, so if anyone knows, please let me know. Bob.
Paul Jones (11-30-2015)
OK, everything is configured. I had a little problem with using the incorrect native units. I used mm. instead of inches, and once that was changed and re-calibrated, It ran a Gcode flawlessly. I am using Mastercam 9.1 and using their generic Mpan pst., and it is running fine in Mach3. So, this will be my last post, unless someone has some questions, I will be happy to answer them. I had a friend John come over and straighten me out on some settings and then he called Don, and he straightened John out on some settings, so at the end, everything was correct enough to run some Gcodes, and they ran fine. So, here is a short video of my machine running a simple Gcode, a square, a circle, and two lines, and finally a triangle, generated from Mastercam. Bob.
Glad that I was of some help to you in finally getting your CNC Router doing it's thing. Don is really the brains behind the scene as he is really good working with Mach3. He actually was very instrumental in my Shopbot electronics, hardware, software upgrade. It has worked flawlessly since the conversion. He even wrote some macros for me that I utilize in my customized 2010 Screen Set. He also helped me setup up my Super PID speed controller that is integrated into the Mach3 Software. Basically, Don is the man!!!!!
Good Luck Bob. You are on your way. Thanks for showing me some of your mold making projects. They are truly masterpieces. Those model train cars are really nice. I am sure this new CNC Router will be a BIG help and lead to many successful projects.
If you check out my intro you will see a link to my YouTube Channel to has videos on my various projects.
Warmest Congratulations Bob!! Quite a run to get to this point on a big project like this and a lot of patience and tenacity. Nice touch with the pen drawing! Look forward to seeing some of your mold work!
Hellicopterjohn! Way glad you could add moral support and sure you did a few things. Always loved that belt sander...Cream of the crop!!
Thanks for sharing all this! ~PJ
First, thanks for the favorable comment.
Yep, I love my 2" x 72" Belt Sander. It has become the most utilized tool in my shop. It takes the place of about 4 or 5 other machines I have and does a better job. The Rotary Platen is my design and is working extremely well. To my knowledge it is the first such feature offered on this type of grinder. It has so many different options and can sand, grind, debur, polish any material that you can think of. it also operates in either the horizontal or vertical orientations. Then the icing on the cake is the variable frequency drive VFD which plugs into standard 220 volt single phase. The VFD converts the 220 volt single phase to 220 Volt 3 phase. The unit has several features that really set it apart from some of the other VFD's. It has an electronic brake that allows it to stop almost instantly and it has what is called a 2X option. It allows me to run a 2 HP 3phase 1725rpm motor at 3450rpm and still have excellent torque through the entire variable speed range. I have several videos on the project and the entire build thread is referenced in the notes section of the videos.
Truly my Pleasure, John. I have been sub'd to your channel for about a year now since I saw you belt sander. It is a magnificent design with the simple elegance I cherish. To me the versatility and optional setups is the cats meow/sliced bread and the index head is icing on the cake!! That is a nice VFD with tons of features...I've used some hi end Baldors with those features driven by RS-485 to handle 4 Desoutter Drill heads on a machine I built, back when. Went back and watched a couple of yours again today!!
Was also appreciative of some of your NuCanoe mods you did when helping my son do some things to his pontoon boat!
Anything new on your plate? Thanks Much! ~PJ
I have yet to finish my conversion of a Minn Kota 5 Speed transom mount trolling motor to variable speed. It has many possibilities. It could be used with the control head still in place with the electronic variable speed controller in its own separate box with forward and reverse operations conducted from OEM Control Handle. What I would like to do is utilize a relay and forward/reverse switch with the speed controller, electric steering all located in one box which is remotely mounted and do away with the Minn Kota control head altogether. It will allow me to either (sit or stand) in my NuCanoe Kayak and conduct steering and variable speed control operations. I am also thinking of attaching it to my casting bar/console with those high powered magnets. That will give me the option to either operate from the secured position on the casting bar or remove it and use it as a hand held unit.
Another cats meow. Ha Ha Just fun stuff for an old retired guy.
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