CNC Router Shop Made

[jjr2001]

Link to latest "Vise" for the Maxi Pallette
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/c...g-system-53816

Link to new Maxi Pallete for this CNC machine:
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...3069#post77378

Link to 3 tool holder plates for this CNC machine including one pen and 2 routers.
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/c...e-plates-52265

Latest spindle with ER 20 Collet and DC power with an RC motor.
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/c...-spindle-52268

This is an old project that I built in 2013 before the lathe and mill became
part of my shop. 5/8 thick aluminum was cut on the 10" table saw with a
non-ferrous carbide 80 tooth blade from Freud.

Here is the original posting from 2013 CNC Build Thread:

JJR Hybrid CNC 8020 MDF Aluminum 37 x 42

The 1 1/2 thick mdf was made by face gluing and screwing two pieces of 3/4 mdf
and securing them with many #10 screws. The screws were 1 1/2 inches long so
I ground them to 1 7/16 long prior to installing them into pre drilled and counter sunk holes.
The counter sinks and screw heads were filled, sanded and primed prior to applying the
rattle can silver paint to make my custom "Alumamdf" (my word, not in Websters book).

After reading many builds I assembled most of the parts/supplies that I would need to build my machine.
I had seen many 8020 machines and quite a few MDF machines as well as some machined aluminum with 8020.
Since I have a small garage shop with a drill press, band saw, and table saw I settled on a machine
that would not require a mill to build but would still be useful addition to my shop.

Southwest Steel is only a few miles from home so I had a good source for aluminum and steel.

The bench was made from two 19" rack mount computer cabinets. I added an MDF top and "outriggers"
to add some width to the table. They are torsion boxes that are bolted to the frames.

For a power supply I found a surplus power supply and converted it to output 32 volts at better than 10 amps.
It is not a switcher, just an old brute force full wave bridge rectifier and some caps.

Gecko 540 controller.

3 x 320 oz-in 2.8 mH Nema 23 Stepper Motor, 3/8" Shaft from CNCrouterparts.

Lead screws and couplers from Enco.

Nuts and bolts from my favorite local supplier.....Marks

8020 from 8020 inc on eBay.

MDF from the local home store.

It runs on Linux and Linux CNC.
I use CamBam to create the Gcode and various Cad programs for the drawings.

So far it has made parts for the F4 Phantom, B35 not built yet, and various
fixtures for the shop. Neat machine to have in the shop

So here are a few pictures from the start to date.

[DIYer]

Thanks jjr2001! We've added your CNC Router to our CNC category,
as well as to your builder page: jjr2001's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

CNC Router by jjr2001

tags: CNC, router, controller

[jjr2001]

I just finished the spindle/motor mount for this CNC Router. Kinda nice when the tool can make new parts for itself. Of course drilling and tapping the small holes was done on the mini mill but the main pieces were cut from 1/2" 6061 aluminum and then dressed up with a file and Noga de-burring tool. I used a .125 carbide two flute end mill for most of the cutting on the periphery but used a 5/16 single flute carbide router bit for the pocket and the main circular mounting holes for the new spindle.

Should have it ready to run in a few days.

Cheers, JR

[pfredX1]

You like using a router as a spindle? I have a little trim router in my CNC and I can't stand all of the noise it makes. Plus just having the 1/4" collet is pretty limiting as far as the tooling I can run. I'm definitely saving my pennies for an ER-11 spindle over here.

[jjr2001]

Hi pfred,
It is not too bad. I do wear ear protection while it is whining along. It is fine for wood, too fast for plastic and ok for aluminum with a 1/8" bit. The high speed is why I am building the new spindle. I have a Dewalt 660 and collets from 1/8 to 1/4. The other router is a Porter Cable and collets from 1/8 to 1/2 but I want to use my end mills and at lower speed. I will have variable speed from about 100 to 5000 rpm with an er-20 collett so I can pick my end mill or drill bit from my stock. I expect the new spindle to be very quiet.

Thanks for checkin in,
Cheers, JR

[pfredX1]

I just face milled a block of HDPE with my CNC. I used a half inch diameter carbide router bit. I have a Bosch Colt router that runs at 30,000 RPM. It made nice chips. That is a peripheral surface speed of close to 4,000 feet per minute. I suppose it depends on what kind of plastic you're cutting? Some can get kind of melty. But HDPE the faster you cut it, the faster it gets cut. Maybe there's an upper limit? But if there is, I've never seen it.

[jjr2001]

I have some UHMW but I have not had a chance to cut any of that yet. I have milled some PVC and polycarbonate. Tried plexiglass and just don't like that stuff at all. The Polycarb and PVC tend to melt and I have quite a bunch of it so I thought I would try to slow down the speed. The other thing is that with a set of ER-20 collets I have a large choice of end mills to choose from. Plus it should be quiet. Maybe I can work without hearing protection!

Cheers, JR

[pfredX1]

You should like working with UHMW. I cast my own HDPE stock out of scrap plastic. It is kind of a hobby by itself. Plus it is handy to have an unlimited supply of stock in the shop. http://i.imgur.com/MogRQ2i.jpg

[jjr2001]

That is neat. I read a thread a while back where they were making machinable wax out of old plastic bottles and candles. I did not know you could make HDPE without a factory! Does it require a lot of heat?

Cheers, JR

[pfredX1]

I melt HDPE in a toaster oven. To figure out what temperature to melt it at, I just melted some on a scrap of sheet metal. Then I adjusted from there doing melts. On my toaster oven that I use I think I run around 365F? But that is going to vary from oven, to oven. It is all very much a whatever works for you process.

There's two kinds of HDPE. There's injection, and blow molded. Injection is thick stuff, like plastic buckets. Blown is like milk jugs. They melt different, and the plastic you get is different too. Injection flows better molten, but cooled it is softer, more rubbery, in a way? Sometimes folks have trouble melting blown HDPE. But I like the plastic better. It is harder, and slicker. Heavier, denser.

I made the Z axis of my CNC machine out of blown HDPE http://i.imgur.com/lSsNyBG.jpg

That's milk bottles.