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I was forever needing to clamp a part right where the coolant return tray was on my old radial drill I used to have so I made some of these "T" nuts then instead of cutting all of them into individual nuts I kept this one as a double
Attachment 11110
Yep, these extensions work. I do this on rotary tables, tilt tables and so on.
A good way to add stops outside the normal surface envelope too. Use caution though people, you'll generate a lot of leverage outside the t-slot; they can break. If you make these, fit them closely, so when under tension they contact a decent amount of the underside of t-slot to counteract tendency to tilt. A set screw in the inboard tapped hole helps too.
Spherical washers equalize contact between step block and part, at the nut. Nut needs to be paralell to upper surface of clamp, otherwise stud/ bolt are bending. https://www.carrlane.com/catalog/index.cfm/27025071F0B221118070C1C512D020609090C0015482013180B041D1E173C3B2853524A5D Maintain a minimum 2 or 3:1 clamp ratio.
I'd also recommend "rotary" t-nuts when you need additional clamping part way through a set up. https://www.carrlane.com/catalog/index.cfm/27225071F0B221118070C1C512D020609090C0015482013180B041D1E173C3B2853524A5C56
They drop in the t-slot instead of needing access from the open end of table.
Website supplied is not a recommendation of brand, just a very complete online catalog.
I am 100% cautious of where my tools are made though, the giant distributors don't always declare where items are sourced. Cheap clamp hardware is exasperating.
PM me and I'll provide reliable contacts that make and carry good quality components.
And to Jon, maybe contacting those to offer ad space would be worthwhile...$$.
I have no financial arrangements with any, probably why I have favorites.
Tool maker is correct caution is required when clamping outside the realm of the devices parameters.
in my case my drill press had its "T" slots milled all the way tp the rim of the table the double "T" nuts were long enough to reach both the rim and the main part of the table even with this I took care not to over tighten my clamps. MY philosophy was more clamps at lower torque on each was by far better than trying to squeeze b y with fewer clamps by over stressing them.
I often used a 36" diameter plate on my 12" rotary table to hold rubber molds I was making i used small machinist jacks with bearings to support the large plate and added clamps with bearings where possible to secure it as well and still allowing rotation
Very tricky to make oversize projects on undersized machines but doable with care and planning
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Thanks Frank S! We've added your Double T Nut to our Workholding category,
as well as to your builder page: Frank S's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/double-t-nut"> <img src="/uploads/151595/double-t-nut.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/double-t-nut">Double T Nut</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Frank+S">Frank S</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/clamp'>clamp</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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Frank S and Toolmaker51,
Good advice on using the double t-nuts and thanks for another resource for tooling clamps and hold-downs.
Regards, Paul
Another thing that helps in this case is a smaller machine is not as prone to to have the power of a bigger machine. Small machines are very capable with good judgement. That is the nice thing about being a tinkerer sometimes, we try our smallish machines to do bigger work. Very nice topic, it good to see how others get it done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
Nelson
This is reminiscent of my "movable-hole" device made for my milling table...
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...essories-46449
The hole (which accepts a pivot pin) is drilled between the two tapped holes in the T-nut. Unlike conventional T-nuts, the tapped holes are tapped all the way through the nut. This allows me to use setscrews in the tapped holes to force the T-nut up against the underside of the T-slots to lock the nut and its hole in place. Naturally, one must exercise care when tightening the setscrews; too much pressure could damage the T-slot.
The hole could be tapped with a different thread than the setscrew holes if that is required; in my case it wasn't. Or, more simply, one of the two tapped holes could be a different thread from the one used to secure the nut in place. Many options are clearly possible.
I use it quite a bit for clamping odd shaped parts with 2 hole down clamps. I could always just use 2 T nuts but this one is just handy and then there are the odd times when I need the clamp to be in the positioned outside of the slots that is when I too use a blunt nosed grub screw to secure the t nut in the slot and the clamp bolt in the other hole. Instead of over tightening things down I add more clamps. IT works especially well when having to edge clamp the nut can be secured then the lateral clamping force put much less strain on the table slots
Marv
Love the idea and the secret with anything is it does not require torquing. I worked in the finish end of a print shop and the paper folding machines, I trained a young man and within two months you could not used a ball driver on 90% of the set screws that required to be adjusted as needed. Many just do not understand torque and how much to apply.
Nelson
You might like these long T-nuts that I made for the rotary table
Attachment 20959
Worthwhile project editor@glue-it.com. :) I'll double your point about rounded ends. Radiused ends are beneficial, especially on blind slots, making use of all length possible, inserting easier too. Also less prone to jam in contours manufacturer milled in slot.
Admitting freely, small rotary tables need these just as larger do, inescapable. What ever table is at hand, some project is too big for the one available, and not only part wise...sub-plates too!
I prefer Tee Nuts be tapped through to broaden selection of stud & capscrew length. Often I find a setup needs as low-profile clamping possible. But on the fence about suggesting them without caveat that running fasteners all the way through exerts force in the wrong direction; breaking out Tee slots or marring inside where Tee Nuts won't slide along anymore. 2 trays, fasteners in appropriate lengths won't set you back as much $.$$ as replacing tooling or fixtures.
Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. [One for each slot.]Quote:
Originally Posted by editor@glue-it.com
Far easier to extend a table than buy, and/ or lift a larger rotary table.
i have made these up to use on an very old drill press where the T-slots were worn out or broken, and the extra long T-nuts worked just fine..
Long T-nuts would be great where the T-slots are broken, this might show they are weak and so spreading the load is good.
Thought I would also share these as an idea:
Attachment 35740
I made them for the low-profile clamp and they are just made out of mild steel bar, but with 6mm and 8mm threads. The 6mm threads were to allow 6mm countersunk bolts to be used. However, these T-nuts are generally just useful to have around, how often to you want to fix something to the table with a smaller bolt through the centre?
Often Tee slots are grossly mistreated in machines and tooling; accidentally by an owner, far more by those who didn't pay for them...
With a decent array of machines/ tooling, one or two have such damage, yet all bought used. A broken Tee slot, holes drilled into tables or vises etc, compel close examination for other issues, I usually pass on them.
Equally, ever see a 36" Ridgid pipe wrench and bent handle; is it a sign of desperation or inadequate resources? After all, they are made bigger, before graduating to pipe tongs or compound wrenches.
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Thanks editor@glue-it.com! We've added your Double T-Nuts to our Fastening category,
as well as to your builder page: editor@glue-it.com's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-double-t-nuts"> <img src="/uploads/234445/homemade-double-t-nuts.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-double-t-nuts">Double T-Nuts</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/editor%40glue-it.com">editor@glue-it.com</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/fasteners'>fasteners</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/holding'>holding</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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dam. so eazy and so smart!!! awesome idea.
I like the 2 hole sized t nuts, and they way he is using it. ( the glue it guy) but 1 more addtion to it... make a 1/4~1/2 ball&seat to go under the nut on the main stud for eazey piviot and no bending of the stud..
Pivoting a tee-nut may concentrate stress on the tee-slot, if I read your intent correctly. A far better solution in avoiding bending of clamp studs is spherical nuts and washers, or the equivalent paired washers.
United Drill Bushing, Carr-Lane, TECO and many more companies make them.
T nuts with through tapped holes while easier to make can be modified to stop studs or bolts from bottoming out on the base of the slots. A trick I learnt years ago is to give the bottom of the thread a good whack with a conical punch to burr over the end thread, this stops any fixing from going through.
no not a pivoting t nut. a pivoting nut on top the stud, on top the hold down under that nut.hardened would be best.so the stud is straight and the t nut is pulled straight. with your type of clamp you can adjust it, eazer than a stepped block clamp that cant be adjusted either this step or that one.so may not be necessary with yours.....
yes I agree, you do not want a pivoting t nut....
Aha. I don't 'know' you, but have read enough of your posts to question my visualization.
Those companies I offered all make spherical washers, making clamping far more secure. Step blocks or not, the combination of nut-washer-clamp are parallel and stud essentially perpendicular. Even finger tight, the parts resist moving. That's a good test.
yes I have some of those washers, there used on all kinds of stuff to keep the load straight. I usually make instead of buying..with that said I just recieved a new spindle square from boring research, it's awesome !! Ive ment to make one for years but just haven't done it.and the price being about 1/2 or less than the "edge product" makes it even better. I have a edge product somewhere, it's effing useless,I doubt I would ever buy anything from them, although it is very pretty.
As far as visualization..the nut on the very top needs a spherical washer under it....if you have much angle...well it should have any way. there is no need to know me as Im a little off center...all the time and usually standing outside the box.
Ive found that the best things you can come up with are from ideas you get from somebody else's idea or work that may or may not be anywhere suitable for what your doing but you may see just 1 segment of it that gets your mind going, and most of the time somebody else can add even more to it for a better easier to make and or use item. kinda like thinking the foot bone is connected to the leg bone witch is connected to the ass bone witch is connected to the...and then you see something you can use, hopefully before it gets to the brain bone.when it gets there you may never see it.
long ago using a peterson TCM25 seat&guide machine( piece of **** when new) I realized this pos is junk...and I know why ( for the most part). and when I made attachments for my mills to use it as a seat&guide machine I knew what I needed to make. witch by this time somebody already had on the market quite expensive.so I made my own using my brain&things I learned along the way.it works dam near perfect ( I dont think anything works perfect) about a year lator I had one of the expensive ones in my hands.... dam if it wasn't darn near identical to mine and would accept the same too blades& holders....if I even needed to buy another holder.l have no idea how I managed to make the blade holder for cutting seats the same as the ones on the market . the TCM25 had a fixed head with the carbide blade hanging off at a angle with2"long thin leggs holding it....chatter city, wadd up eazely, dont cut square to the axiz....and with expensive pilots screwed into it with a 3mm allen screw,screwed into the end witch screws into the main holder.....and snapps off oh so eazy( the pilot is very hard and very thin at that end . so I made a ball head drive,with a stout tool blade holder , eazer adjstiablity and the pilot was now fixed into the valve guide. works like a dream. it also helps that myt quill has little to no movement unlike the tcm 25 with must have .020" clearance to wobble, the factory rep told me is has a built in cam action.......I told him what to do with his cam action....and smiled. I was the first to call him on the bluff.
Speaking of elongated Tee-nuts....
Made these about 3 years ago, for a pump shop I help out periodically. Tomorrow, a flange is coming in needing modifications, these are almost certain to help out.
Some advantageous features, of the eight slots, four shorter than other four, have no reasonable explanation as to why. Realizing every part varies, and Tee slots are generalizations, these (in set of four) not only have differing tapped hole sizes, they aren't symmetrical to the length. If turned end for end it re-spaces the 'bolt circle' about 1.5 diameters, allowing more selection of best positions. In other words, they embody all positive attributes contained in this entire thread and various illustrious contributors.
Attachment 44324
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Thanks Toolmaker51! We've added your Long T-Nuts to our Fastening category,
as well as to your builder page: Toolmaker51's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-long-t-nuts-2"> <img src="/uploads/257271/homemade-long-t-nuts-2.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-long-t-nuts-2">Long T-Nuts</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Toolmaker51">Toolmaker51</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/fasteners'>fasteners</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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When using these elongated multiple holed "T" nuts there is one other significant advantage particularly on a slotted flat rotary table they all for greatly expanding the useable diameter. If a dog point grub screw is inserted into the inner most hole and snugged down when you then use the hole that is outside of the table diameter or outside of a slot on your drill table as your clamping position, you are not nearly as likely to break out the end of the slot
