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Thread: Drill-mill fixure for central Dremel mounting

  1. #1
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    Carnel's Tools

    Drill-mill fixure for central Dremel mounting

    I want to mill printed circuits boards (PCB’s). The required small mills demand for a high speed. So a Dremel with 30000 tpm is an adequate tool. The cross table of my drill-mill is very useful when the copper traces are orthogonal or under 45 degrees.
    I don’t have a CNC mill but a simple hand controlled drill-mill.
    I started some years ago with a quill clamp which holds the Dremel besides the machine head (picture 1).
    This design has a drawback: the quill has angular play which changes the position of the Dremel wrt the work piece.

    So I decided to make a Dremel fixture where the Dremel is mounted centrally to the quill (picture 2). To limit the length of the fixture I directed the power cord through the spindle boring. To that end it was necessary the cut the power cord of the Dremel and provide it with a small (11 mm) plug and socket, small enough to allow passage through the boring (picture 3). The soldered connections are isolated with heat shrink and hot glue.
    Drill-mill fixure for central Dremel mounting-img_0797.jpgDrill-mill fixure for central Dremel mounting-img_0851.jpgDrill-mill fixure for central Dremel mounting-img_0858.jpgDrill-mill fixure for central Dremel mounting-img_0844.jpg

    The Dremel itself was screwed in a PLA nut, 3-D printed by a friend. The nut was pressed and hot fixed in a steel strip (picture 4). 3-D printing screw thread seems to be difficult for, in different trials, the threads where always to small. So I made a tap for this non standard thread (¾”, 12 tpi, 60 degrees) and widened the thread. (Alternatively an alu nut can be made with the same tap.)

    The Dremel is supported by an enclosure made from 4 stacked layers of 8 mm compact laminate sheet (see pictures 2 and 6). It ensures a stiff mounting without side movement.

    For clamping the fixture to the quill I used 32 mm plywood (pictures 2 and 5). Perhaps it is not the best material, but it was the only material of sufficient thickness I had in stock from a discarded kitchen top. The hole encloses the quill’s collar narrowly and is fixed by a pair of alumin(i)um cotter pins (British naming) (picture 5). The hole in the clamp for the cotter pins is provided by a copper tube in order to let the pins slide easily.
    Drill-mill fixure for central Dremel mounting-img_0850.jpgDrill-mill fixure for central Dremel mounting-img_0859.jpg
    My Dremel is an old model. I noticed some radial play in the Dremels spindle. Dismantling showed that it was not the bearing itself but the bearing house. I filled it with small pieces of 0.1 mm milar sheet. Now the spindle is without any play.

    This design is giving a very stiff mounting thanks to the 4 vertical studs. The shorter two are made from 12 mm round rod, the longer ones are 10 mm threaded rod.

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  2. The Following 12 Users Say Thank You to Carnel For This Useful Post:

    davesrepair (Dec 5, 2023), FEM2008 (May 5, 2020), gms002a (May 5, 2020), Jon (May 7, 2020), kboy0076 (Dec 14, 2022), Kevic (May 5, 2020), old_toolmaker (May 31, 2020), Paul Jones (May 19, 2020), thehomeengineer (May 5, 2020), Toolmaker51 (May 6, 2020), Tule (May 4, 2020), winmac (Sep 8, 2022)

  3. #2
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    Thanks Carnel! We've added your Rotary Tool Mounting Fixture to our Rotary Tools category,
    as well as to your builder page: Carnel's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:




    2000 Tool Plans

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    Supporting Member thehomeengineer's Avatar
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    thehomeengineer's Tools
    Really like this perfect for small cutters thanks for sharing.
    The Home Engineer

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    Thank you, Home Engineer, for your interest. Specially for your small models it could be a good alternative. Also useful when your cross table is CNC controlled.

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    Manitoba Man's Tools
    My first thought was "That is a serious little unit. I like it." Very creative too.

    Bob
    Manitoba, Canada

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    Carnel (May 7, 2020)

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    Supporting Member Crusty's Avatar
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    I needed to do some PCB work so I bought a Proxxon drill stand and a Proxxon XY table.

    Drill-mill fixure for central Dremel mounting-proxxon-01.jpg Name:  Proxxon 02.JPG
Views: 1845
Size:  13.6 KB

    It worked well but I burned up two of the Proxxon motor's electronics in short order, so I'd had enough of lowest cost electronics. I also had a Foredom hand carver with a powerful motor and I decided to adapt it to the Proxxon hardware. The Foredom has 1" diameter handpieces so I bought a unitized rifle scope mount for 1" scopes and attached it to the Foredom stand and now I have a small, precise and powerful milling machine that's perfect for making holes in circuit boards or other small milling work.

    Drill-mill fixure for central Dremel mounting-proxxon-03.jpg

    For those of you that're interested in hand carvers, while the Fordom is a nice tool, I later found that the MasterCarver clone is just as good as the Foredom at about half the cost. The MasterCarver handpieces also take ¼" shank bits so are more versatile that the Foredom ones.
    If you can't make it precise make it adjustable.

  9. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Crusty For This Useful Post:

    Altair (May 31, 2020), Carnel (May 18, 2020), Jon (May 19, 2020)

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    Supporting Member jdurand's Avatar
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    I have the Grizzly version of the Foredom, the motor is fine for what I do but the bearings in the handpiece were bad. They replaced and it still got hot, so I bought a real Foredom handpiece when I saw one for a reasonable price.

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    Paul Jones (May 21, 2020)

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    Take a look at the Master Carver handpiece. It seems equivalent to a Foredom except the ability to mount ¼" shank bits opens up a new world of uses. Small router bits are available in a broad spectrum of profiles and they work well in my experience.

    I've also used a 3m sanding burr (hard carbide nuggets on a shaped core) in it to completely carve banjo necks in short order, but do it outside or you'll be cleaning up sawdust for months.
    Last edited by Crusty; May 19, 2020 at 07:18 AM.
    If you can't make it precise make it adjustable.

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    Nice set of photos. Many of the original Dremel tools have a strange front collar thread size of 3/4" by 12 TPI. The taps are available and I adapted my Dremel tools to some of my lathes for drilling and light grinding purposes.

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    Carnel (May 19, 2020)

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    Buying a tap and the associated tap drill can get expensive. My guess would be somewhere in the neighborhood of $50.

    I've threaded adaption collars on the lathe and that works well but, for folks lacking a thread cutting lathe, consider buying the Dremel router attachment...

    https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-565-Mu...s%2C212&sr=8-4

    and repurposing the already threaded sleeve which is used to mount the Dremel tool.

    It may also be possible to repurpose the less expensive easy twist nose cap...

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PBU0K0...s%2C200&sr=8-1

    although I can't guarantee it.

    Incidentally, people with metric equipment can thread an adapter M19 x 2 mm. This is very close to the inferial size: 3/4" = 19.05 mm and 12 TPI (.083" pitch) = 2.11 mm.
    ---
    Regards, Marv

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  16. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to mklotz For This Useful Post:

    Carnel (May 19, 2020), old_toolmaker (May 31, 2020), Paul Jones (May 21, 2020)

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