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Thread: Dual Action Pneumatic Air Cylinder

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    Supporting Member jonnydot's Avatar
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    Dual Action Pneumatic Air Cylinder

    Hoping some one can tell me what foot pedal I need to control a dual acting air cylinder.I purchased a 2 way 2 position foot pedal but now I think I need a 3 way 2 position foot pedal ...link to the cylinder I have ...https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KSDA32x6...gAAOSw5k9bWkJU ................ and a link to the pedal I have ..... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/G-1-4-Th...53.m2749.l2649 ................. and finally a link to what I now "think" I need https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-4-NPT-...0AAOSwBUpbOuTB ............I want the cylinder to open (extend) when the pedal is depressed and close (retract) when the pedal is released Many thanks for reading

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    Seedtick (09-25-2018)

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    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
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    metric_taper's Tools
    You need a 4 way foot pedal valve;
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-Way-2-...item2853b0ba4a

    Found this by using this search;
    https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...Way+Air++Valve

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    jonnydot (09-25-2018)

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    Supporting Member jonnydot's Avatar
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    I found this on you tube with a 5 way could you explain the difference between a 4 way and 5 way please

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    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
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    metric_taper's Tools
    The 4 way, has 4 ports, air inlet, air outlet (common when exhausting either the A, or B port), and the A, B (or 1,2) ports to the double acting cylinder.
    A 5 way, make the outlet ports separate between the A, B connections. The intent is to put an air restrictor in them and control how fast the cylinder moves, and you can have a different rate between the 2 cylinder positions. One example of this is a door opener, that opens fast, and closes slow.
    The 5 way will probably cost more, but if you already have one cheaper then a 4 way, that's the way to go.

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    Supporting Member jonnydot's Avatar
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    cheers thanks heaps.Would you know of any sites links etc where I could learn more about pneumatics?

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    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
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    Google is your friend, I'm not an expert, but have repaired simple 2 way foot valves used on my sand blast cabinet, as well the safety shut off valve on the same tool. They fail when a rubber O-ring slides past a drilled hole in the valve, which ends up tearing it. I have plastic parts fail, that I replaced with lathe machined aluminum.
    Here is one link, that has more near the end.
    https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/p...eumatic-valves
    Just like you found a YouTube video, there are many more that are instructive in this subject.

    Can you share what sort of mechanism your making? Many others on this forum have much experience and can suggest ideas that would take years to figure out. Including any pitfalls.

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    Supporting Member jonnydot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metric_taper View Post
    Google is your friend, I'm not an expert, but have repaired simple 2 way foot valves used on my sand blast cabinet, as well the safety shut off valve on the same tool. They fail when a rubber O-ring slides past a drilled hole in the valve, which ends up tearing it. I have plastic parts fail, that I replaced with lathe machined aluminum.
    Here is one link, that has more near the end.
    https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/p...eumatic-valves
    Just like you found a YouTube video, there are many more that are instructive in this subject.

    Can you share what sort of mechanism your making? Many others on this forum have much experience and can suggest ideas that would take years to figure out. Including any pitfalls.
    Pocket hole Jig upgrade many thanks

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    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
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    That seems like a perfect use, especially if you have to adjust an over center clamp on the jig for different material thicknesses.
    I was just doing some pocket holes last week. My jig is a cheap knock off of a Craig, and not designed to adjust for various board thicknesses. So I usually take the part out with the drill bushing, and C-clamp it to the board so the screw gets located in the correct place.

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    Supporting Member jonnydot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metric_taper View Post
    That seems like a perfect use, especially if you have to adjust an over center clamp on the jig for different material thicknesses.
    I was just doing some pocket holes last week. My jig is a cheap knock off of a Craig, and not designed to adjust for various board thicknesses. So I usually take the part out with the drill bushing, and C-clamp it to the board so the screw gets located in the correct place.
    I see your from the US so I got this link for you .I have what looks to be the same jig but purchased in Australia.I thought this one would be better for my purpose due to the thick ally base and I also thoght in the future I might be able to extend it to allow more than 2 holes to be drilled at once https://www.harborfreight.com/portab...kit-96264.html

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    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
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    metric_taper's Tools
    Mine is similar to this, purchase a few years back from ebay. But it only has the drill guide angle for thinner stock. And my last task was attaching a 1-3/8" thick square horizontal shoe rail to the newel post of 3-1/2" square.
    Harbor Freight made much money from me over the years.
    Your tool enhancement should be interesting.

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