Engine Stand & Run Stand

[Imabass]

I made a dual purpose and fully adjustable engine run stand.

I wanted something that I can test engines before going through the labor of installing in the vehicle. I am currently working on a V10 for a ford van. It is a major job to install the engine. Don't want to have to do it more than once. I will be able to use this on all my engines. This design, is a dual purpose engine assembly stand and run stand. If you need to rotate the engine to work on it, there is no need to fully remove it from the run stand.



The base is 5'x3' made form 11 ga 2x2 tubing. I have short risers on the feet with 6" heavy duty castors that allows it to easily roll on uneven ground. Prior to welding up the bottom frame, I cut some 2.5"x3/16 tubing that sleeves over the rails to attach engine mounts and radiator mounts. These have a 1/2 nut welded into the bottom to securely clamp them in place.



The main tower for the engine stand it 2"x1/4" tubing that is sleeved with 2.5"x3/16 tubing. This allows for up and down adjustment. There are two 3/4" bolts on the outer sleeve to securely fasten the height. In the outer sleeve I welded 2"x1/4" DOM tubing that accepts the semi truck brake camshaft that is welded to the head plate. The head plate was made from 1/2" plate. Drilled and welded in 1/2" nuts. The fingers were made from 1/2 square solid bar. I bent these with 1/2" inner radius to slide over the 1/2" bolts on the head plate. To the end of the fingers I used all thread couplers and drilled out the threads on the inside. To the back side of the camshaft, I have attached a slack adjuster from semi truck brakes.


I am using a radiator that I bought that will also be a backup radiator for one of my trucks. I used one from a dodge ram with 360. Below the radiator, I attached a platform for battery box and 6 gallon outboard gas can (its just what I already had).


I attached a control board that I scavenged from some scrap equipment that I purchased for the engines. It still needs to be required but has all the gauges and controls that I will need.


The lower engine mounts are fully adjustable. I used a category 0 tractor top link. I made simple plates that attache to this ford V10. Plates will need to be fabricated for each types of engine I use this for.

Things I plan to change on this design. I plan to weld on forklift slots so I can lift with my forklift. Also the fingers on the engine stand really need to be longer to clear flywheel/flex plates.

[DIYer]

Thanks Imabass! We've added your Engine Run Stand to our Engine Test Stands category,
as well as to your builder page: Imabass's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

Engine Run Stand by Imabass

tags: engine test stand

[PJs]

A really fine build Imabass!! Great write up and pics too. Adding the forklift option will be a lot better that a swinging cherry picker. Like the toplink rod struts for the motor mounts even having to have other mounts available, a beefy, flexible and secure design. Impressive and well thought out.

Thanks for sharing the idea and build with us.

PJ

[Saltfever]

Could you describe the use of the slack adjuster a bit more? I realize it allows rotation, as you mentioned, but is its function a bit different from a rotating tube within a tube? Thanks

[Frank S]

Aw yes a kindred spirit. The use of the brake cam rod and slack adjuster to rotate the engine is a favorite of mine.
those old slack adjusters and cam rods make excellent ready made worm gear drives

[Imabass]

Could you describe the use of the slack adjuster a bit more? I realize it allows rotation, as you mentioned, but is its function a bit different from a rotating tube within a tube? Thanks

The function is the same. It is just much much easier to rotate a big engine using the slack adjuster. The sleeved pipe that standard engine stands have it often difficult to rotate when you have a fully dressed v-8 or in my case a v-10. Then when you do get them moving, the want to continue in motion until the heaviest part is at the bottom. They also only provide about 8 holes so when you do rotate it to the next hole you must move the engine 45*. The slack adjuster allows you to move it to infinite positions and with ease. The slack adjuster has a internal gear reduction of something like 22:1. There are other posts on here about use of slack adjusters.

[mr mikey]

Nice job, the slack adjuster is a fantastic idea. Thanks. Mr Mikey.