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Hello. Sometimes I'm angry with the angle grinder, a lot of noise of dust and sparks. So I decided to build a Power Hacksaw. It works very quietly, and while it cutting you can do other things, hacksaw is automatically shut off.
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Nice build Vyacheslav,
I made one some years ago and have used it a lot its on my builders page.
A suggestion if you dont mind is you could fit a No Volt Release switch, it is easy to forget that the machine is still live if you have if you have been doing something else while it is cutting. I retro fitted one to mine for that reason.
Regards
Olderdan
Job well done Vyacheslav, very well executed, turned out nice and works great, thanks for sharing !
Doug
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Thanks Vyacheslav.Nevolya! We've added your Power Hacksaw to our Hacksaws category,
as well as to your builder page: Vyacheslav.Nevolya's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-power-hacksaw-28"> <img src="/uploads/223313/homemade-power-hacksaw-28.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-power-hacksaw-28">Power Hacksaw</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Vyacheslav.Nevolya">Vyacheslav.Nevolya</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/hacksaw'>hacksaw</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/motor'>motor</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
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Nice job, I need one for my workshop
I will add information about the motor. This is a German Grunhain with 240 watt with a built-in gearbox.
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Vyacheslav Nevolya,
Nice Job!!! I always wanted a small power hacksaw.
Vyacheslav Nevolya,
Does this saw lift the blade out of the cut on the reverse stroke?
Congratulations Vyacheslav.Nevolya - your Power Hacksaw is the Homemade Tool of the Week!
Excellent work. This is our first winning power hacksaw, and it's also a well-documented and comprehensive example of a good build.
Some nice tools from this week:
Harbor Freight Hydraulic Press Improvements by dudley.toolwright
Caliper Modification by Eloy Workshop
Chainsaw Blower Attachment by Made in Garage
Collet Key by petertha
Bandsaw Roll Around Wheel Brake by rgsparber
Tactical Pen by KraftSmith
Saw Sharpening Vise by Philip Davies
Bench Vise by diyfixman
Dial Indicator Mount by tonyfoale
Electrolysis Setup by mariost
Welders Accessory Stand by Canobi
Texturing Hammer by Dimitris.Polychronis
Sonic Cleaner by Al8236
Vyacheslav.Nevolya - We've added your tool entry to our All Homemade Tool of the Week winners post, and you'll be receiving a $25 online gift card, in your choice of Amazon, PayPal, or bitcoin. Please PM me your current email address and award choice and I'll get it sent over right away.
More importantly, this is your 10th Homemade Tool of the Week win! I've just added the golden wrench-on-pedestal graphic to the awards showcase in your postbit, visible underneath your avatar.
:rocker: :clapping: :thumbsup: :bow:https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...OfTheWeek1.png:bow: :thumbsup: :clapping: :rocker:
You join these two other 10-time winners: rossbotics and mklotz. Congratulations again and good job :thumbsup:
Here are all 10 of your Homemade Tool of the Week winning tools:
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The blade does not rise when the reverse movement is, and it constantly presses the weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by old_toolmaker
Vyacheslav.Nevolya
Thank for the information. That is a great little saw!
Bravo . It looks very sturdy! Thank you.
That sure does look like a solid machine. I would like to build one for my shop.
Vyacheslav Nevolya,Quote:
Originally Posted by Vyacheslav.Nevolya
Nice job, it is the best power hacksaw using handsaw blades that I have seen.
However, I think that with a simple modification its performance could be significantly improved. This sketch shows the basics.
The modification consists of raising the link mounting point on the sliding assembly and lengthening the link to suit. Alternatively you could lower the motor and crank, or both. Lowering the motor is probably a lot more work and not so simple .
Attachment 47484 Click for full size
On the sketch.
The hatched block represents the sliding assembly, the rest is obvious showing the crank in two positions, approximately half way through each stroke.
On the right of the sketch are some force diagrams assuming an anti-clockwise rotation of the crank. I have no idea which way yours rotates.
In the original case we can see that the tension force in A can be resolved into Fxa a horizontal force pulling the blade back AND Fya which is a vertical force pulling the blade downwards. All good.
Looking at the forces in case B we see that Fxb pushes the blade forward on the return stroke BUT Fyb is pushing the blade down. Which is not good. This causes increased blade wear, it takes more energy to move the blade and so heating is increased for no benefit.
The lower sketch shows the situation after raising the mounting point. In the A case the forces are as in the unmodified case except that the vertical force on the blade is increased. As long as this is not too severe it is a good thing as it will cut better. Looking at case B we can see that the situation has reversed itself. The vertical force Fyb is now upward, that is; relieving some of the downward weight force, this is a welcome change. So raising the link mounting point is beneficial on both strokes.
This was for anti-clockwise crank rotation. Clockwise rotation reverses everything. The purpose of the link in A and B positions is also reversed. A is now the return stroke and B is the cutting stroke, so the forces Fa and Fb are reversed. In the original case instead of the blade being pulled down more on the cutting stroke it will be subject to a lifting force acting against the weight force. Not good.
