South Bend 9" model 405 Lathe - Refurb / Restoration / Upgrade

[rossbotics]

That's a great job you did there on the restore, I myself have 4 older metal working machine tools that I have restored back to there originality, I'm from the old school and this is the kind of equipment I was taught on, I personally do not want anything but this kind of equipment in my shop, this stuff is indestructible, this summer I'm going to restore my 6913 Clausing lathe.
Love the back plate casting and VFD, did it have all the change gears?

Here is a link to my shop and some machines I restored
https://rossbotics.wixsite.com/machiningtechniques


You did a great job, keep up the good work

[tonyfoale]

I notice a lack of tumbler reverse so I can recommend a reversing electric leadscrew drive (No 1 mod for me).
Regards
Olderdan

Alan,
Are you talking about a synchronised leadscrew drive that would enable screw cutting or a free running system just for turning/facing feed?
if synchronised, how are you doing that. I ask because I am thinking of doing that and there is no point reinventing the wheel.

Some years ago I bought a lathe that looked to be in bad rusted shape, but it turned out that it had spent years unused in a corner near the grinding area before being put out to pasture. The rust was mainly on the old grinding swarf and so when cleaned up there was little rust on the machine. Here are some before and after shots.

[olderdan]

Tony,
I am no help to you on this as my leadscrew drive is just for plain turning only.
Having said that I find it a vast improvement as its variable speed and adjustable during a cut.
I used a new golf cart 12v motor and gearbox powered by a battery charger, to be honest I do not have the knowledge to create a synchronised system.
That lathe you restored is one solid piece of machinery, and a very nice job you made of it.

[Vyacheslav.Nevolya]

You did a great job. Thank you for sharing.

[tonyfoale]

Tony,
I am no help to you on this as my leadscrew drive is just for plain turning only....., to be honest I do not have the knowledge to create a synchronised system.

There are many ways to do it. The easiest would probably be to put an encoder on the spindle which will tell you where that is. I am actually waiting for an encoder to arrive and I attach a pic. of the mounting that I have made for it. Then use a stepper motor on the screw, or geared down to the screw. Then it is only a matter of training some electrons to feed steps according to the gear ratio "spindle to screw" that you need. An Arduino with a stepper motor shield could run the electron circus at very low cost. Although this is probably the easiest way to do the job, it is not the best. If you use the half nuts for screw cutting you still have the need to engage them manually at the correct moment and you still have the reversing out problem when cutting metric threads with an inch lead screw and vice-versa.
One better method using the same basic hardware would be to define a "home" position of the saddle, which the control system would find on each startup. Then the position of the saddle is always known relative to "home", as long as you don't open the half nuts. If you accept not opening the half-nuts then you might as well replace the nuts and lead-screw with ball nut and screw (not overly expensive now). The downside is that you are then prevented from moving the saddle manually so you add a pulse wheel (see pic) to the apron.
Now that you've got that far you might as well do the same to cross slide and then you have a full CNC lathe.
Personally I don't like trusting steppers to never miss a beat and I prefer using servo motors and linear slides for position, but the cost is higher than the first option and fitting the slides is not always easy.


Pulse wheel.


Bracket for rotary encoder. Smart Alex will note that it prevents long stock being used. That bracket was designed to hold an encoder with none of the backlash or flex associated with a belt driven unit. This is for a specific accurate measurement task and not for general lathe work.

That lathe you restored is one solid piece of machinery, and a very nice job you made of it.

I hadn't much of a workshop for 20 years after I moved from England to Spain, but 10 years ago I came across the one pictured, but no sooner had I got it up and running than I got a job offer out of the blue from Segway and I went to live in the US for 3 years. Over there I acquired a nicer lathe, albeit smaller, a CNC Bridgeport mill and a bunch of other stuff which I shipped back. Workshop space was at a premium so I got rid of the big lathe. A decision that I regret on the odd occasion. Although it cleaned up nicely, it had had a hard working life and the bed was heavily worn, so precise work had its problems.

[Paul Jones]

Doug,

Thank you for your link to your website. Lots of great information including the page with all the great links to other resources.

Regards,

Paul

[Wmrra13]

Hey Tony,

Coincidentally, I'm the process of restoring/setting up that same Asian 12x36 lathe. Where do you find parts for yours?

Also, I'm a bit out of the loop now but, I was club level road racer and subscriber to RRW&MT for many years and always enjoyed your articles. At least the parts I could understand....

Cheers,
Tyler

[tonyfoale]

Hey Tony,

Coincidentally, I'm the process of restoring/setting up that same Asian 12x36 lathe. Where do you find parts for yours?

Tyler,

I haven't needed parts, but I guess that a Jet distributor could get anything necessary. Lathe parts don't change much over time. On the other hand there is much that couldn't be made at home.

Also, I'm a bit out of the loop now but, I was club level road racer and subscriber to RRW&MT for many years and always enjoyed your articles. At least the parts I could understand....

Oh dear, I always try to make articles understandable, I obviously failed.

[mr95gst]

Wmrra13,
I am still a amateur with the foundry. Everything I have learned came from Youtube. I started out casting more complex parts with two part molds, but recent, all I have been casting is blank round or square stock. I have gotten so lazy with it that I just pack up some sand, cut a round plug out, and pour the aluminum in the top. When I did the backplate, I used a 1 gallon paint can to make the cavity. It was right around 7" in diameter.

Olderdan,
I like your powerfeed! I have been thinking about doing the same thing. The lathe only came with one set of gears. The SB 405 used a different gear pitch than most lathes so they are impossible to find. Lucky, the ratio I have is good for a slow clean finish pass. Without the gear set though, I can't power thread. Since I cannot thread, I have no reason not to convert to an adjustable motor driven leadscrew. At work, we have a Hardinge lathe that came with that feature from the factory. I love having the option to adjust the speed on the fly. Did you have to add something to the leadscrew at the foot of your bed? Mine stops even with the leadscrew bearing. I figured I would mount mine on the gear side since that end of the leadscrew lends itself well for mounting a pulley. What are you using to control the speed?

[bigtrev8xl]

Very nice job, I'm just about to start a total restoration of a 1940s horizontal mil.
How did you clean the the ways on the bed?
Thanks