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Thread: Tap wrench guide

  1. #1
    Supporting Member mklotz's Avatar
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    Tap wrench guide

    A tapping guide is used to keep a tap straight when it's not possible to mount the work on the lathe or mill. The simplest style is nothing more than a block of metal with a hole to match the tap diameter drilled through. While that works, it doesn't support the tap wrench so it's still possible to put undue side pressure on the tap and break it.

    Professional guides like the black one in the picture below use a fitted wrench that turns freely in the support column. They're expensive for an occasional-use tool.

    It's easy to make one to fit a conventional T-handle tap wrench. I bored an aluminum cylinder to be a running fit on the wrench chuck and added a through hole to permit the tap to extend out the bottom of the cylinder.




    This cylinder is held in a base that can adjust up and down on the cylinder and is held in place by a screw. Cutouts in the base permit in situ cleaning and lubrication of the tap. The cutouts also provide a means of clamping the base to the work if that is required. A V-groove on the bottom of the base allows the tool to be used on shafts and cylindrical workpieces.




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    Last edited by mklotz; Jul 8, 2017 at 01:21 PM.
    ---
    Regards, Marv

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  3. #2
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    Thanks mklotz! We've added your Tap Wrench Guide to our Tapping and Threading category, as well as to your builder page: mklotz's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:


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    Supporting Member mr95gst's Avatar
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    That is pretty slick. Does it use the knurled surface of the tap tightening nut as the inner "bear" surface?

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    jjr2001 (Jan 8, 2018)

  6. #4
    Supporting Member mklotz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr95gst View Post
    That is pretty slick. Does it use the knurled surface of the tap tightening nut as the inner "bear" surface?
    Yes, it does. My guide is made of aluminum so there will be a very slight amount of wear. I'm not concerned about that because the tool is used only infrequently and the tiny amount of wear that might result will not affect its operation.

    If you're concerned about wear, make the sleeve from steel or, alternatively, turn the knurling off the lock nut and mill some flats so it can be tightened with a wrench.
    ---
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    Supporting Member carl blum's Avatar
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    Tap wrench guide-tapguide.jpgHi: I bought one of these tap guides back in 1977. Then I made this stand to hold it over parts. It was over 25 years before I broke a tap in it, and I was just being sloppy. It is all anodized aluminum and still works fine. Carl.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tap wrench guide-p02-head.jpg   Tap wrench guide-p18-12v-turnout-motor-installed.jpg   Tap wrench guide-p20-funky-power-tapper-drill-press.jpg  

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    In response to Carl Blum & post *5; The tap wrench handle I comprehend, well as pix of motorized tapdriver built from a hand drill motor/ gear head; with a mechanical forward-reverse arrangement. Very creative all around. I'd prefer a tap chuck over a drill chuck; but that is less than secondary importance.

    Pic titled P18-12v Turnout Motor Installed.JPG needs some descriptive detail, please.
    Tap wrench guide-p18-12v-turnout-motor-installed.jpg
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
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  11. #7
    Supporting Member carl blum's Avatar
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    Model Railroad Turnout Control

    Hello Toolmaker51:
    The turnout motor is mounted under the model train layout. At the bottom you can see the end of a piano wire that runs through the motor and table to the tracks above. By twisting the wire it moves the point rails. Very easy to install. The gray blocks are cams that hit the limit switches to stop the motor and to light up signals. The block with "7" on it is tapped for mounting and the switches. The top mounting plate is tapped to hold everything else. We made 75 of these in series production.
    Commercial turnout motors require a sizeable hole be drilled before the track is laid. Torque wire control can be installed without disturbing anything above.
    Carl.
    Tap wrench guide-img_4146.jpg
    Last edited by carl blum; Nov 18, 2022 at 07:48 AM. Reason: Add photo

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  13. #8
    Supporting Member mklotz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carl blum View Post
    Hello Toolmaker51:
    The turnout motor is mounted under the model train layout. At the bottom you can see the end of a piano wire that runs through the motor and table to the tracks above. By twisting the wire it moves the point rails. Very easy to install. The gray blocks are cams that hit the limit switches to stop the motor and to light up signals. The block with "7" on it is tapped for mounting and the switches. The top mounting plate is tapped to hold everything else. We made 75 of these in series production.
    Commercial turnout motors require a sizeable hole be drilled before the track is laid. Torque wire control can be installed without disturbing anything above.
    Carl.
    I'm sorry but I fail to see how the switch actuator motor is related to the thread subject, tap wrench guide. Can you clarify, please ?
    ---
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  15. #9
    Supporting Member carl blum's Avatar
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    Each motor has 12 tapped holes and I have made two series of motors for a total of 150 motors or over 1800 tapped holes. Motorized tapping was a real time saver. Plus I still have a power tapper and wrote an article for Village Press. The tap guide stand has an aluminum guide and is still fine after 50 years. Carl.

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    Toolmaker51 (Nov 18, 2022)

  17. #10
    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    It all makes sense now, though never had guessed at model railroading angle
    Already big fan of power tapping, power insertion of Heli-Coils, and power running of fasteners.
    The electric motor driven tapping head is unique; not dependent on machine speed range, of course reversible rotation is function tying it together.
    Is it capable of 3/8-16 in steel?
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
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