Hello everyone. Glueman2 here. I have a Triton Router table which if a few years old and only has a basic fence. I would like to fit a sliding fence. Has anyone done this or have ideas?
Seedtick (May 19, 2018)
If the table is aluminum, you can work it like you would wood, with ordinary wood working bits and blades. Route dadoes that would accept modular t-track. I worked in a cabinet shop many years ago. They had a shop made router table and only the leading half of the fence was moveable. The face of the trailing half of the fence was fixed to be even with the cutting edge of the bit. That way when adjusted the leading part of the fence for depth, the trailing part would catch the freshly cut face in a stable fashion.
Glueman2 (May 19, 2018)
The sliding fence that comes with the RSA300 type is OK but limited as was the one on the old Series 3. You could fix (rivers, screws, bolts) some aluminium angle to 1, 2 , 3 or all four edges so that one side of the angle is flush or slightly less (but not higher) with the table top. obtain bolts with wing nuts (doesn't have to be like those sold at places like Carbatec but they are great) . drill appropriate sized holes in aluminium top of angle (leaving plenty of "meat" in the aluminium edge) from which to swing the straight edge made from jointed h'wood, pine (or even aluminium u channel if you are not going to touch the fence). suggested positions are middle of long side for a short fence and a corner position for a long fence. Before drilling check opposide side to bolt holes for a place for a "G" cramp (dont use a "F" clamp as these will vibrate loose while in use). You may need to attach some timber under the pressed table for a good clamping grip (I had to do this with a drill press table).
Alternatively, like on my first Router table in mid 70's I made a U track(3 pieces glued & screwed to form the U) from well seasoned jointed hardwood: before glueing, the side pieces are routed(straight bit)to accept a slide. The "T" slide is made of two 10 cms blocks with a wing nut that passes through them and the fence. bees wax helps this "older home made design" to slide easily.
I don't know if Col Housie owner of Gifkins router tables & dovetail jigs has any items on Utube but he certainly does his stuff. He sells router dovetailing dvds but worth a search for ideas. He uses disposable pine fences with cutouts for a variety of bits: you can see him in action at wood shows, if nearby to you.
My original table was fold away ( & very heavy) & more than 4 foot square and the fence was about 6 ft (i.8 m) long. I donated the the table to a mens shed but I think I may still have a Pic of the fence. I may be able to locate & somehow upload here for you to have a squiz, but have never done an upload here=bit of a beginner in the new IT. Do it all the time for gumtree ads.
the sides of the newer Triton are about 20 or so mm thick allowing some stability in attaching "stuff" to enable a sliding fence even h'wood rebated to gain more beef for stability.
Cheers & happy routing.
Last edited by ranald; May 23, 2018 at 08:36 PM. Reason: add photos
they could be clearer however two router bit holes exist & both are a little over size for my largest panel bits ( about 3 in or 76mm)at that time.the closest hole to the T attachment was for routing at 90 deg to the T slot (beading, edgeing etc). The other one has a slot beside it running down the fence to allow multiple adjustments for jobs loke daddos/grooves in full or large sheets. A bolt ran through the table & that slot to allow the adjustments and contained the fence with a wing nut and mudguard washer. I used inspiration from a combination of models from Tay (spelled Tage) Frid and another by Wallace Kunkell (I think that was his name) and developed my bench for my needs at the time.
sorry for being "long winded".
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