Warco Saddle Stop

[editor@glue-it.com]

Although I'm not a big fan of lathe saddle stops I've got to the point where I thought it might be a good idea for certain repeat tasks and hence I've set out and made this for the Warco WM240B lathe.



The result is a cast iron block that hangs over the saddle and locks with a nut. The stop itself then is a threaded bar that has a simple locking knurled wheel. All quite simple to make and more details are here: Warco Saddle Stop

[scrdmgl]

Hi Nigel:

Excellent design and finish of the components. I only have a suggestion for you. Any and all stops (lathe saddle, milling vise, etc.) are better provided with a round or convex contact area. The idea being that is easy for chips and any other debris, to stick to a flat surface messing up the accuracy of the location. Less so to the said end thus shaped.

Cheers

Jorge

[suther51]

There have been several stops posted that I have taken notice of, so by chance you are the one that I will ask sense I finally have enough motivation to post a question about them. I do not believe that I have yet seen a post that clearly shows how the stop clamps to the ways of the lathe. Perhaps a picture of the clamp side will be answer enough. Does the clamp or lock nut simply register on the underside of the ways? To be honest I have not owned my lathe long enough to have thought to look at the underside of the ways to see how much of a ledge is there. My lathe is a 12x32 enco of 1990 vintage. Just getting started with it. Finding out that "good condition" can have a more varied meaning than I would have thought. Oh well live and learn. Thanks in advance.
Eric

[Frank S]

Eric, good condition is a poorly over used term when someone sells a machine.
Particularly if they are not a machinist or have not operated the machine in question. To them good condition may mean everything moves or it switches on and runs.
Rarely if ever are any spec sheets supplied stating current tolerances, back lash, run-out etc
I've found some machines for sale claiming to have been refurbished only to find out the seller had done the refurbishment using little more than cleaning solvents and spray paint. I have even bought some if the price was right and the paint job was good quality, Knowing that as long as there wasn't too much wrong with it I could scrape square and tighten up where needed and make a decent machine out of it

[scrdmgl]

How true it is Frank. The same word or definition, can have a different meaning for many people. That is akin as saying "an honest politician" when in fact is a contradiction in terms.

Cheers

George

[Frank S]

Most of the stop blocks I have used or encountered clamped like I have shown in the drawing picture

The basic block is milled to fit the way the clamp has a raised fulcrum to connect to the block held in place by a simple bolt from underneath
Some blocks will have the thread in the clamp and the bolt passing from the top .
the clamp will extend as far as required under the bottom of the way. usually depending on the size of the lathe it could be a little as .250" or as much as an inch or more.

[rossbotics]

Although I'm not a big fan of lathe saddle stops I've got to the point where I thought it might be a good idea for certain repeat tasks and hence I've set out and made this for the Warco WM240B lathe.



The result is a cast iron block that hangs over the saddle and locks with a nut. The stop itself then is a threaded bar that has a simple locking knurled wheel. All quite simple to make and more details are here: Warco Saddle Stop

Looks great, you did a nice job of it

Doug

[suther51]

I took the opportunity to stop by my shop while walking the dog to night. The ledge under the way on the lathe is 1/4 inch. Adequate I should think. But this brings up another question, the total depth of the ledge is actually 11/16. The difference is accounted for by the presence of a gear rack. Now I have yet to find an answer for the existence of 2 means of powering the carnage up and down the ways, lead screw and gear rack. Lead screw would be more accurate I am thinking. Could the gear rack be for broaching? Take more stress? It has much more lash than the screw. Is this some sort of chineesium lost in translation? I have down loaded the owners manual for the enco and the apparent grizzly clone but found nothing there. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Eric

[Papa Smurf]

I have yet to find an answer for the existence of 2 means of powering the carnage up and down the ways, lead screw and gear rack. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Eric

Apologies for my tardy reply, but I don't see any other answer to your question. I trust that your use of the word "carnage" is a typo and not an accurate reflection on the "good condition" machine you bought!

Most "professional" manual lathes have both rack and leadscrew features fitted. Some very small lathes may dispense with the rack, and their leadscrews are permanently coupled to the saddle - a handwheel on the end of the leadscrew moves the carriage. Once we get to CNC machines, all bets are off.

RACK:
A handwheel on the apron drives the lathe saddle through some gearing which ends in the pinion that engages with the rack. This provides for "quick and dirty" movements of the saddle along the bed, irrespective of whether the lathe spindle is rotating or not. I have also seen some lathes with very heavy tailstocks equipped with a system for racking the tailstock roughly into position before using the tailstock quill for more finely controlled movement. On some very large machines, the rack movements may even be motorised.

LEADSCREW:
The leadscrew is usually coupled to a set of gears (often in a gearbox mounted in front of the headstock) that allows the leadscrew to rotate in a fixed ratio to the rotation of the lathe spindle - the ratio being set by the gear train selected. The apron usually carries a "split nut" mechanism which allows the lathe saddle to be coupled (or un-coupled) with the leadscrew as required. This is how we are able to cut threads and also provides for saddle fine feeds. Professional machines often save wear on the leadscrew by providing a separate saddle drive system.

So the short answer is: rack for quick and dirty movements, leadscrew for slower movements in direct ratio with spindle rotation.

Don't underestimate the potential of the handwheel-operated rack feed system. I have been able to produce balls of adequate quality when the quantities and time available did not warrant making a dedicated ball-turning attachment, by roughing out with combined cross- and rack feed and finishing with a file followed with an emery polish.

I hope this helps you.

[suther51]

Thank you for the reply. I likely did not articulate my question well, what confuses me is the ability to select power to the rack instead of the lead screw by flipping a lever on the apron. Powering the carriage with the lead screw makes scenes to me for accuracy. But when the rack is powered through the gear box the motion is jumpy and inconsistent. This all makes me wonder why some thing more than hand power on the rack might be needed. Thanks
Eric