1974 XS/TX650 rebuild

[th62]

The morons have invaded.

[nova_robotics]

It's not stronger (you are not changing the composition of the material) but you are increasing cyclic fatigue life.

Ultimate tensile strength increases as well. Probably doesn't help when a material is in compression, but tension, shear and bending can be improved. Surface imperfections cause stress concentrations when materials are mechanically loaded, which act as a "nucleation point" for failure.

...but if you're running that close to the limit you probably have other issues. I have never polished something with the intention of making it stronger. Just make a better part.

[th62]

Give it a rest morons, I think you have stroked your egos enough.

[th62]

That's three more added to the idiot list. I really don't understand these morons that need to stroke their egos all the time, then move onto stroking something else.
For the morons, who obviously think they know something nobody else does, polishing conrods for example does not increase strength it simply removes defects from the surface thus preventing cracks starting. Shot peening does pretty much the same thing. Polishing rocker arms on the other hand is purely for aesthetics. Itnalso does notndecreasebstrength. By polishing the metal you are simply removing the high spots thus levelling the surface. The high spot have no value in terms of strength.

Don't bother replying and stroking yourselves any further, I have added you to the idiot list, ie, the ignore list.

[th62]

More on the hydraulic clutch conversion. A total fup!

This is a new 20mm clutch slave cylinder I machined up for my 74 TX650 to replace the 25mm slave I made. The 25mm slave didn't work as the piston only had around 1mm movement using the 9.5mm master I bought.

The new 20mm slave was machined up from piece of 6061, the piston is 304 stainless and the seal used is from from a hydraulic ram. Instead of using a circlip to retain the seal, I machined a cover to both keep the seal in place and also to act as a dust seal.

To fit the slave I bored out the actuator hole in the clutch cover from 26 to 29mm and drilled the M5 threaded mounting holes out to 6mm and bored them to take allen heads.

The 9.5mm master I bought for it was advertised as using mineral oil, which suited me as I dislike using brake fluid. Unfortunately, the ad was wrong, I used mineral oil and the piston seals swelled up and jammed the piston. WhenI finally managed to get the piston out, one of the seals was damaged, rendering the master useless.

Replacement seals are unavailable for this master, so I decided to retain the screw actuator. This engails returning the clutch cover to original. To do this I turned up a couple of stainless 6mm T nuts and threaded them M5 and pressed them into position. I then turned up a Delrin spacing ring for a press fit around the screw actuator.

It all works as it should now with no obvious signs of the modifications I made. And now I have a 20mm clutch slave sitting in my useless parts bin.

So, all for nought... I'm now back to the original cable actuated clutch.

[th62]

[IntheGroove]

Great job! Looks perfect...

[tonyfoale]

Superb job.

[Hoosiersmoker]

Beautiful! You've done a great job!

[NeiljohnUK]

Very nice, though I'd recommend an oil filter guard, as a small stone puncturing it might only become apparent as the rear tyre loses grip and things go pete tong. Many BMW F800 owners can tell you that story!