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Thread: 20ft 14,000 lb trailer

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  1. #3
    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NortonDommi View Post
    Very nice especially the wiring. One of my pet hates is dodgy wiring - last time someone asked me to just check the trailer for a warrant of fitness, "I think it needs a bulb" ended up a complete rebuild, brakes, brake lines, coupler, tyres. many modifications, a new deck AND a rewire.
    One day I will learn aye.
    My Partner asked me why I ran the wiring in the way that I did.
    For one thing 90% of all wiring problems seem to start with a faulty or failing ground and since every thing requires a ground this wire receives the heaviest current loading it also happens to be a ga. larger in diameter in most 7 conductor trailer cords. Obviously on a trailer with so few lights and being LED the amperage draw is minimal compared to a 53 ft semi trailer with dozens upon dozens of lights strung along the sides and rear. There is still no reason not to try and wire it the best way possible. I detest using crimp connectors when ever possible, even when I do use them I use the non insulated ones if I can get them or remove the plastic insulation so I can solder as well as crimp then insulate with heavy duty shrink tubing for a water proof connection. When making branch connections off of a main conductor I remove only enough insulation to be able to separate the strands then pass the branch wires through these then twist the tail of the branch wires half along one side of the split and half along the other side then fold the connection tightly so the shrink tubing will slip over it My reason for using a double layer is probably a bit anal but I feel it makes for a more factory molded looking connection. I also use only 3m or greenbrier brand tubing because it is thicker and makes for a more rubberized coating. My reasons for leaving the main cord continuous from beginning to end also insures there are no possibilities of a loose connection happening throughout the cord .
    Lastly once he decides on the color of the trailer and we paint it I will spray a Military grade coating inside all hidden cavities on the trailer I will be using the KBS cavity coater this is just one more defense against moisture intrusion.
    One thing I failed to mention the trailer currently weighs only 2200 lbs by the time I add ramps and the extruded aluminum runners for the floor and a nose guard to protect the grill and headlights of his pickup for when pulling it behind his Prevost's Motor coach it will still only weigh 2600 lbs or less leaving him with a trailer capable of hauling 11,400 lbs.
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use KBS products

  2. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Frank S For This Useful Post:

    baja (Apr 6, 2021), EnginePaul (Apr 11, 2021), mlcohen987 (May 10, 2021), NortonDommi (Apr 4, 2021)

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