Dial Indicator Attachment

This is a dial indicator attachment I designed for use in the milling machine for indicating small holes and tramming the mill, after a few hours horsing around in CAD I came up with this tool.

The dial indicator is attached to a Sliding Block that has a machined tongue with a knurled locking thumb screw, this tongue fits very nicely into a milled slot in the Radius Arm, the Block will slide in and out to whatever radius is needed, (from 0 - 5”, the arm can be made longer if needed), the Block will slide all the way inward toward the spindle which positions the dial indicator directly on center of the machine spindle, (it will also go past center about a negative ½”) this is the key feature that makes it easy to indicate a very small hole in without the need for a bunch of universal joints, stems, knuckles Etc. this tool is very rigid and works extremely well.

Tramming the mill head in is no different than usual, just loosen the Sliding Block adjusting screw and slide the Block out as far as you need then relock the adjusting screw, sweep the head in as you normally would.

The unit has a ½” diameter stem 1 ½” long to fit into a collet or drill chuck, the entire unit was constructed from O-1 precision ground flat stock, the two knurled thumb screws were made from 12L14.

Below are some photos of all the machined parts, also photos of the tool being used to indicate in a small hole and the tramming of the mill along with 3 drawings.

As always thanks for looking
And happy machining

Doug

Attachment 17845

Finished Parts

Attachment 17846

Completed unit

Attachment 17847

Different Angle

Attachment 17848

Indicating in a 3/8" hole

Attachment 17849

Another View

Attachment 17850

A Different View

Attachment 17851

Sweeping the Mill Head

Attachment 17852

Another Angle

Attachment 17853

Yet Another Angle

Here are the 3 drawings, just right click then left click save picture as, there in .png format

Attachment 17855

Attachment 17856

Attachment 17857

A very nice, clean, functional design and a lot easier to build than a copy of the commercial Zero-it device...

Mitutoyo Zero-IT Series 950 - Penn Tool Co., Inc

It was the shop made version of the Zero-it that brought me to this web site, as this site had a link to an outside machining club where there were drawings for such.
I was looking for other references, as I purchased the Shars brand version of this, and questioned it's quality. The parallel sliding mechanism, had .6mm of clearance, which rendered the device useless as it was not stiff enough (with all the slop) to keep any setting when moved during tramming.
I ended up returning it as a junk copy of a bad idea.
I agree with Marv this is a very nice design as it is stiff and few (6) parts to make, and no high tolerance.
Drilling and reaming 2 very parallel holes is not trivial to do. At least for me.
I base this on my failed attempt to build a crank shaft for a model Stirling cycle engine.

I think this...

Homemade Mitutoyo-type 'Zero It' Indicator Holder - HomemadeTools.net

is probably the article to which metric_taper refers.

The Zero-it is a very nice tool but at prices approaching $200, one is strongly motivated to make one's own copy, or, better yet, make Doug's design.

BONUS HINT:

Since I just addressed this on another forum, I'll repeat it here.

Lots of folks, when using a device like these, fiddle about with mirrors to see the DTI dial when checking the +Y point of a hole/pin over which they are centering the spindle.

Assuming that the hole/pin is truly cylindrical (i.e. circular cross-section), if the +X, -X, and -Y DTI readings are the same, the +Y must read the same (i.e., it need not be checked). This is a consequence of the geometric fact that three points determine a unique circle.

You are absolutely right Marv, I never bother to look at +Y

Doug,

Very nice craftsmanship and a beautiful, easy to make tool based on your design. Thank you for taking us through your constructuction steps and tool application.

Paul

Yes Marv, that was the article. I was looking to see what tolerance a correctly made tool would have. And from reading the instructions a much closer fit hole is made with a home built. I would believe the Mitutoyo has a high tolerance on the parallel rods. The Shars had a locking screw, which was a Phillips head screw, not a thumb screw. But to make it rigid enough, you had to over tighten and cause distress on the sliding rod.
But Mark's design makes this moot, it's so simple and clean. The long slot would be the most difficult machining operation. At least that's how I would see the making. The thumb screws have some time effort to 'whittle' away much of the round bar to make the 8-32 threaded section.
I see Doug inserted drawings into the OP. Thank you.

<!-- BEGIN /var/www/html/homemadetools/protected/modules/zeus/views/tool/postUpdate.php -->
Thanks rossbotics! We've added your Dial Indicator Attachment to our Measuring and Marking category,
as well as to your builder page: rossbotics's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-dial-indicator-attachment"> <img src="http://www.homemadetools.net/uploads/169409/homemade-dial-indicator-attachment.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-dial-indicator-attachment">Dial Indicator Attachment</a> <span> by <a href="http://www.homemadetools.net/builder/rossbotics">rossbotics</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/milling'>milling</a>, <a href='http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/dial-indicator'>dial indicator</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
<!-- END /var/www/html/homemadetools/protected/modules/zeus/views/tool/postUpdate.php -->

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by metric_taper

Yes Marv, that was the article. I was looking to see what tolerance a correctly made tool would have. And from reading the instructions a much closer fit hole is made with a home built. I would believe the Mitutoyo has a high tolerance on the parallel rods. The Shars had a locking screw, which was a Phillips head screw, not a thumb screw. But to make it rigid enough, you had to over tighten and cause distress on the sliding rod.
But Mark's design makes this moot, it's so simple and clean. The long slot would be the most difficult machining operation. At least that's how I would see the making. The thumb screws have some time effort to 'whittle' away much of the round bar to make the 8-32 threaded section.
I see Doug inserted drawings into the OP. Thank you.

---

If you make a lot of knurled thumb screws a semi-production procedure may save time...

Buy or make a length of material with the desired thread.

Knurl a length of material with the desired head diameter.

From the latter, drill and tap for the thread, part off a screw head.

From the former, cut off required screw length.

Attach screw to head with Loctite or solder.

Having a selection of the most-used head and thread materials allows quick production of thumb screws. Since such screws aren't normally exposed to high torques the two piece assembly works well and saves time.

Thanks Marv, I've never had a reason previously to make a thumb screw. My hobby has always been fixing stuff, some new FAB, and minor tooling. But with moving to surface plate measuring, the need of adapters and indicator holding components has pushed the need of thumbscrews. So thanks for the techniques.

Also doing part off work on my 10X20 bench lathe was impossible, until I procured a 2" plate that it is now bolted too. It used to "walk" on the floor with very light parting operations. It never came with a mounting stand. Then 25 years ago, I purchased a stand from harbor freight intended for their 12x32 lathe. It was 2 sheet metal rectangle boxes with a sheet metal web between. I trimmed the web to length for my shorter lathe. But with any parting cut, the lathe would go into harmonic oscillation. I played with the cutter. Procured other cutters. Never could get a problem free parting to be realized. The 2" thick steel plate fixed this. If I would have made a weldment stand, and bolted it to the floor, that would have fixed this as well.
Steve

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by metric_taper

Also doing part off work on my 10X20 bench lathe was impossible, until I procured a 2" plate that it is now bolted too. It used to "walk" on the floor with very light parting operations. It never came with a mounting stand. Then 25 years ago, I purchased a stand from harbor freight intended for their 12x32 lathe. It was 2 sheet metal rectangle boxes with a sheet metal web between. I trimmed the web to length for my shorter lathe. But with any parting cut, the lathe would go into harmonic oscillation. I played with the cutter. Procured other cutters. Never could get a problem free parting to be realized. The 2" thick steel plate fixed this. If I would have made a weldment stand, and bolted it to the floor, that would have fixed this as well.
Steve

---

Parting off is often problematic for small lathe users. Some suggestions...

Make the tool dead sharp with sufficient relief

Ensure the tool is perpendicular to the lathe axis and on center

Use a lubricant - kerosene for aluminum, sulfurated cutting oil for steel, nothing for brass or cast iron

An improvised lubricant feeder like my...

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/p...ff-oiler-27738

can provide a steady supply of lubricant

Keep the speed on the low side

If you grind the tip of the tool so that the right corner projects just slightly more than the left, then the burr that exists when the workpiece falls off will be on the stock and not the workpiece. Drive the tool in a tiny bit more and the burr will be cut off the stock.

Some more thoughts on thumbscrews.

Knurled screws are attractive but can be uncomfortable if they must be gripped tightly to do their job. If only for occasional, delicate adjustments, like a micrometer barrel, they're fine but for frequent adjustments requiring a firm grip (e.g. the handles on a threading die stock) they can be uncomfortable.

One solution is to run a file over the knurls after they've been formed. This will knock the tops off the little pyramids that form the knurl and make it more comfortable to handle.

For beefier stuff I prefer fluting. It provides a firm grip and is much easier on the hands. An example is my tripod quick release handle...

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/t...-release-27215

Marv, re: "grind the tip of the tool so that the right corner projects just slightly more than the left, then the burr that exists when the workpiece falls off will be on the stock and not the workpiece"

Why not just the opposite then there is no burr to remove?
Ralph

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mklotz

Parting off is often problematic for small lathe users. Some suggestions...
<snip>

---

I recall Tee-Nut saying that the parting operation should sound like bacon frying. When the machine don't dance on the floor, you can really hear that.

Ralph,

it's generally accepted that the piece you've just parted off will be difficult to rechuck, so making that piece not have the pip is good practise - the remaining stock (still in the chuck) can then be refaced and the pip from the parting removed.

there is generally a pip because of the angled grind of the parting tool (causing the chip to curl), or due to the piece breaking away once the diameter is reduced enough

Des

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ralphxyz

Marv, re: "grind the tip of the tool so that the right corner projects just slightly more than the left, then the burr that exists when the workpiece falls off will be on the stock and not the workpiece"

Why not just the opposite then there is no burr to remove?
Ralph

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ralphxyz

Marv, re: "grind the tip of the tool so that the right corner projects just slightly more than the left, then the burr that exists when the workpiece falls off will be on the stock and not the workpiece"

Why not just the opposite then there is no burr to remove?

---

Let me try to explain a bit more clearly, Ralph.

When parting there is almost always a burr generated when the part is freed from the parent material, even with a squarely ground tool. As the cut approaches the center the remaining material gets thinner and thinner, thus weaker and weaker. At some point before the cut is completed, the material is so weak that it fractures before the cut can be completed, thus leaving the burr, material that didn't have a chance to be cut before the fracture occurred.

If the burr is on the part, it can be awkward to remove, perhaps necessitating rechucking. If the burr is left on the stock, it can be removed easily by simply turning the tool a bit farther until it cuts to center.

By grinding the tool with a right-hand leading edge, the part will be cut loose before the remaining stock at the stock side of the cut gets weak enough to fracture, thus assuring that the burr is left on the stock.

Congratulations rossbotics - your Dial Indicator Attachment is the Homemade Tool of the Week!

Another strong week, with a rare two-in-a-row win for rossbotics after last week's Tilting Dividing Fixture Homemade Tool of the Week by rossbotics. rossbotics joins three other tool builders who have also won Homemade Tool of the Week in back-to-back weeks:

Brendon - Marking Gauge on 7/17/15 followed by Dovetailing Bench on 7/24/15.

mklotz - Bench Block Enhancements on 5/27/16 followed by Model Cement Mixer on 6/3/16.

tonyfoale - Horizontal Milling Machine on 12/23/16 followed by Drum Brake Grinder on 12/30/16.

Like the Superbowl, nobody has ever won three in a row. :)


Some nice picks from this week: a Shop Air Cleaner by mr95gst, a Powered X-Axis by bobs409, a Tube Notching Method by Tuomas, a Clamp Plate Forming Tool by KustomsbyKent, and a Hardware Storage Unit by bobs409. There were three good builds by Frank S - Alignment and Distance Tool, Backhoe Receiver Hitch, and a Drill Bit Extension. And, we also saw a nice Rotating Tail Stock Chuck by jjr2001, who is rapidly climbing the Top Builders List with 118 total homemade tools.


rossbotics - you'll be receiving a $25 online gift card, in your choice of Amazon, PayPal, or bitcoin. Please PM me your current email address and gift card choice and I'll get it sent over right away.

That's win #15 for rossbotics! Here are all of your wins:

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href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-dial-indicator-attachment"> <img src="https://www.homemadetools.net/uploads/169409/homemade-dial-indicator-attachment.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-dial-indicator-attachment">Dial Indicator Attachment</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/rossbotics">rossbotics</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/milling'>milling</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/dial-indicator'>dial indicator</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>

I understand, I was thinking the fall off piece is just waste, the part left on the lathe was the work piece.

Of course I am brand brand new to machining so I have not even done a project on my lathe yet.

Ralph

Congratulations, Doug; very well deserved.

Thank You Very Much, Marv

First thanks to Doug for this great post!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mklotz

Some more thoughts on thumbscrews.

Knurled screws are attractive but can be uncomfortable if they must be gripped tightly to do their job. If only for occasional, delicate adjustments, like a micrometer barrel, they're fine but for frequent adjustments requiring a firm grip (e.g. the handles on a threading die stock) they can be uncomfortable.

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I'm not a fan of knurled nuts/screws at all.

Like you I prefer something else, there are actually lots of ideas here each with its disadvantages and advantages.

For industry work we often use "Shear Lok" press on knobs. Of course this means buying the press on knobs.

When I need to make a knob I do prefer a flutted design myself or maybe better described as lobes. The big problem here is the sharp edges which have to be blended in. Add a few holes around the perimeter of Tommy bars when you over tighten things and need little extra leverage to unscrew.

Sometime the big knob doesn't work well so a stud with Tommy bar can be a good choice. I call this the C-Clamp look.

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One solution is to run a file over the knurls after they've been formed. This will knock the tops off the little pyramids that form the knurl and make it more comfortable to handle.

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I like fairly heavy blending and often use course Scotch Brite wheels on a right angle die grinder.

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For beefier stuff I prefer fluting. It provides a firm grip and is much easier on the hands. An example is my tripod quick release handle...

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/t...-release-27215

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Sometimes when crude will do welding a bar across the top of a cap screw can produce a rugged and quick solution.

In any event I'm liking all these ideas. This has been a great thread already.

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Originally Posted by rossbotics

Thank You Very Much, Marv

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Really thank you! I may not go this route but alternative ideas are what keeps the idea factory working.

This will be a great place for you to learn how to run your Lathe Ralphxyz

Excellent presentation. Thanks

Thank You Norton

What a great help in the all mill set-ups. No need to find a convenient flat spot on the machinate affix a magnetic base holding the indicator. Thanks

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Originally Posted by rossbotics

Attachment 17856

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Doug, did you do any special fixturing to machine the slot on the Swing Arm? My method would be to put in a 8" milling vise with parallels supporting the edges. I'm concerned that clamping pressure may warp the center of the part when the end mill breaks through on the final pass, and cuts the slot wider in the middle of the part. I've no experience with O1 flat stock, only O1 drill rod. I assume there is little stresses internal, but don't know for sure.

For heat treat was there any special treatment to reduce warpage of the long slot? I have a heat treat furnace (a Paragon kiln). I'm thinking I would put it on a fire brick so it's supported along it's length. And do a temper to 400F.

Thanks

Hi Taper
That's what I did I used two 1/2" X 1" X 8" hardened parallels on there edge and spaced them up on parallels from the bottom of the mill vise, and spaced up the swing arm as well, this way equal pressure was applied throughout the swing arm for milling the slot, worked great.

O-1 tool steel is not difficult to heat treat at all, beings you have a furnace just heat it up to around 1500 deg, and quench her in oil then clean it up nice and shinny and reheat it until it turns to a straw color and quench it once more, it's now tempered, here's a link to all the specs, http://buffaloprecision.com/data_sheets/DSO1TSbpp.pdf

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Originally Posted by rossbotics

Hi Taper
That's what I did I used two 1/2" X 1" X 8" hardened parallels on there edge and spaced them up on parallels from the bottom of the mill vise, and spaced up the swing arm as well, this way equal pressure was applied throughout the swing arm for milling the slot, worked great.

O-1 tool steel is not difficult to heat treat at all, beings you have a furnace just heat it up to around 1500 deg, and quench her in oil then clean it up nice and shinny and reheat it until it turns to a straw color and quench it once more, it's now tempered, here's a link to all the specs, http://buffaloprecision.com/data_sheets/DSO1TSbpp.pdf

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I've made lathe form tools from O-1 drill rod. As well shafts for needle bearings to run on, and sand blast nozzles (which I don't temper). I did have one mishap, I made a replacement bandsaw blade tension bolt for my 4x6 import saw. The original bolt stripped out. I thought, "I don't need to temper this", well it didn't take to long for the shaft just above the threads to fail. Snapped right off. It did teach me that tempering was a required process if you don't want it to shatter like glass.

So what is your method of cleaning up the burnt oil residue? I've found removal to be a PITA to get a clean surface.

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Originally Posted by metric_taper

I've made lathe form tools from O-1 drill rod. As well shafts for needle bearings to run on, and sand blast nozzles (which I don't temper). I did have one mishap, I made a replacement bandsaw blade tension bolt for my 4x6 import saw. The original bolt stripped out. I thought, "I don't need to temper this", well it didn't take to long for the shaft just above the threads to fail. Snapped right off. It did teach me that tempering was a required process if you don't want it to shatter like glass.

So what is your method of cleaning up the burnt oil residue? I've found removal to be a PITA to get a clean surface.

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After it's cooled down I just wipe it off and go to the grinder where I have a wire wheel and get the crud off, I then take some 220 grit by hand and clean it up, heat it back up to a straw color and quench her once more, I have two surface plates of different sizes and only use them for inspection Etc. go down to your local granite shop and get you one of there drops, they gave me mine, I got two pieces of that stuff there about 14" X 16"just for laying down full sheets of wet dry 600-800-1000 and do polishing or whatever on, this stuff is incredibly flat, you can use this plate like a lap with a piece of 600 wet dry, or you can grind it all over like I did, this is the best way, If you find your slot closed a little bit from the heat treating you can put it back in the mill with the same parallel setup and with a 1/4" carbide end mill and clean the slot up.

Hope this helps

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Originally Posted by metric_taper

I've made lathe form tools from O-1 drill rod. As well shafts for needle bearings to run on, and sand blast nozzles (which I don't temper). I did have one mishap, I made a replacement bandsaw blade tension bolt for my 4x6 import saw. The original bolt stripped out. I thought, "I don't need to temper this", well it didn't take to long for the shaft just above the threads to fail. Snapped right off. It did teach me that tempering was a required process if you don't want it to shatter like glass.

So what is your method of cleaning up the burnt oil residue? I've found removal to be a PITA to get a clean surface.

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Also here is a color chart for steel

Attachment 18035

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Originally Posted by rossbotics

After it's cooled down I just wipe it off and go to the grinder where I have a wire wheel and get the crud off, I then take some 220 grit by hand and clean it up, heat it back up to a straw color and quench her once more, I have two surface plates of different sizes and only use them for inspection Etc. go down to your local granite shop and get you one of there drops, they gave me mine, I got two pieces of that stuff there about 14" X 16"just for laying down full sheets of wet dry 600-800-1000 and do polishing or whatever on, this stuff is incredibly flat, you can use this plate like a lap with a piece of 600 wet dry, or you can grind it all over like I did, this is the best way, If you find your slot closed a little bit from the heat treating you can put it back in the mill with the same parallel setup and with a 1/4" carbide end mill and clean the slot up.

Hope this helps

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Doug, thanks for your reply:
A stationary wire wheel I do not have. I've used them at friends homes, they just are too easy to have large chunks of skin removed (and my skin is getting thinner every day). Scary enough to use a buffing wheel, which is what I tried to use in the past to remove the oxide coating from heat treat. It was ineffective as I could not cut the oxide off without hours of effort.
Just a few weeks ago, a guy advertised polish black granite slabs, that at one time were the exterior facade of a bank gone long ago. I calculated the weight from the description, 296lbs. But for $20, how could I go wrong. And that was my intent was for a lapping plate. Way too big, so the next project is to cut it down with a diamond blade in a circular saw. It would make a good surface plate, as I assume it was polished flat via a lapping process. But at 4" thick, probably is concave if held near its edges (at it's current size). I also purchased sheets of wet dry sand paper (eBay), from 280 grit to 5000. I played a little on it with a piece of brass.

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Originally Posted by metric_taper

A stationary wire wheel I do not have.

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Sometimes I don't think of tools I have and they get lost in their piles. I have a 4 inch angle grinder. And I have a wire cup wheel for it. That works pretty good at removing munge. I also can control it to my safety desire.

Hi metric_taper,
Using a wire wheel on a grinder or polisher is safe, just let the wheel do the work and don't use force. About the only machinery that it is safe to use wearing gloves is a grinder or polisher. I spent years of school holidays working in my dads polishing business and only on special small work would we use bare hands.
I can recommend riggers gloves as they are light, fit well and protect the hands from an accidential touch.

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Originally Posted by NortonDommi

About the only machinery that it is safe to use wearing gloves is a grinder or polisher. I spent years of school holidays working in my dads polishing business and only on special small work would we use bare hands.

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That is a negative. I worked in the tool maker/job shop machinist trade for 10 years then taught it and other classes for an additional 40 years. NO GLOVES were allowed around rotating machinery, no exceptions.

I had a student at Mississippi State leave on some welding gloves when he went to clean up the edge of a sq piece of 1/8" thick steel for a welding exercise. He lost his nail on his RH thumb when it was pulled into the wheel. One of only three shop/lab injuries I had in my time teaching. The other two were due to equipment failures. Yes I know welding gloves are loose, but a no glove policy is best. This was also the policy when I went through the Navy's Machinery Repairman school and onboard ship.

BTW, for those who think using pliers or vice grips to hold a small piece against a grinding wheel, think again. That's virtually guaranteed to end up with the piece flying across the shop. If its too small to hold by hand, then use a small vice and a pencil grinder.

Interesting advice both on gloves and holding work piece in molegrips

One more hand safety tip I feel needs mentioned.
I've seen countless machinists do this, and recently even watched a few of those instruct-able vids published by folks who have published dozens of how to videos.
Where the machinist places a small swatch of Emory cloth or scotchbrite on the tip of his finger then inserts it into the bore of a spinning cylinder to polish the bore
I was even guilty of doing this twice first and last at the same time early on while teaching myself how to use a lathe. The bore caught the swatch and twisted my finger around fortunately it didn't rip my finger off or even break or dislocate a bone all it did was rip skin and meat loose from the bone leaving my nail on the underside of my finger. I was able to twist the skin and nail back in place then wrapped it with gauze and made a splint then taped it up real good.
my finger had that stinging needle feeling for quite a while the nail later came off but grew back and everything healed up just fine
That happened close to 50 years ago and to this day when the inside of a cylinder needs dressing I use a split wooden dowel rod with a swatch placed in the slot my fingers or hands do not go inside of a spinning cylinder.

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Originally Posted by MeJasonT

Interesting advice both on gloves and holding work piece in molegrips

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Mole grips, is that the local brand name, or some other colloquial?

Never mind:

I googled it, wikipedia tells the story. And it is a Newport South Wales manufacture M. K. Mole and Son. Mole wrench.

Excellent advise as one can repeatedly do "something" for years & get by with it, but it only takes one time to acquire an injury.

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Originally Posted by Frank S

Where the machinist places a small swatch of Emory cloth or scotchbrite on the tip of his finger then inserts it into the bore of a spinning cylinder to polish the bore
................
That happened close to 50 years ago and to this day when the inside of a cylinder needs dressing I use a split wooden dowel rod with a swatch placed in the slot my fingers or hands do not go inside of a spinning cylinder.

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Around the same time period, a young apprentice, the future son-in-law of the boss, was screw cutting a long internal 7/8" thread. Just big enough for a finger. He used his finger to try to extract some swarf and, you guessed it, the thread just screwed up his digit and pulled it straight off. As I gave first aid, another began gently turning the part down to extract the remains of the finger. I don´t recall if it was successfully attached but the memory of it remains with me.
In general I am not a model for a safty poster, I might not stick my finger into an internal thread but Frank I still do what you did and other things that I know to be unsafe. Laziness is usually the reason and I still do the same things even after I´ve been bitten, I have a few scars but nothing too serious. Stupid, yes, no argument there.