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no not a pivoting t nut. a pivoting nut on top the stud, on top the hold down under that nut.hardened would be best.so the stud is straight and the t nut is pulled straight. with your type of clamp you can adjust it, eazer than a stepped block clamp that cant be adjusted either this step or that one.so may not be necessary with yours.....
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yes I agree, you do not want a pivoting t nut....
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Aha. I don't 'know' you, but have read enough of your posts to question my visualization.
Those companies I offered all make spherical washers, making clamping far more secure. Step blocks or not, the combination of nut-washer-clamp are parallel and stud essentially perpendicular. Even finger tight, the parts resist moving. That's a good test.
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yes I have some of those washers, there used on all kinds of stuff to keep the load straight. I usually make instead of buying..with that said I just recieved a new spindle square from boring research, it's awesome !! Ive ment to make one for years but just haven't done it.and the price being about 1/2 or less than the "edge product" makes it even better. I have a edge product somewhere, it's effing useless,I doubt I would ever buy anything from them, although it is very pretty.
As far as visualization..the nut on the very top needs a spherical washer under it....if you have much angle...well it should have any way. there is no need to know me as Im a little off center...all the time and usually standing outside the box.
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Ive found that the best things you can come up with are from ideas you get from somebody else's idea or work that may or may not be anywhere suitable for what your doing but you may see just 1 segment of it that gets your mind going, and most of the time somebody else can add even more to it for a better easier to make and or use item. kinda like thinking the foot bone is connected to the leg bone witch is connected to the ass bone witch is connected to the...and then you see something you can use, hopefully before it gets to the brain bone.when it gets there you may never see it.
long ago using a peterson TCM25 seat&guide machine( piece of **** when new) I realized this pos is junk...and I know why ( for the most part). and when I made attachments for my mills to use it as a seat&guide machine I knew what I needed to make. witch by this time somebody already had on the market quite expensive.so I made my own using my brain&things I learned along the way.it works dam near perfect ( I dont think anything works perfect) about a year lator I had one of the expensive ones in my hands.... dam if it wasn't darn near identical to mine and would accept the same too blades& holders....if I even needed to buy another holder.l have no idea how I managed to make the blade holder for cutting seats the same as the ones on the market . the TCM25 had a fixed head with the carbide blade hanging off at a angle with2"long thin leggs holding it....chatter city, wadd up eazely, dont cut square to the axiz....and with expensive pilots screwed into it with a 3mm allen screw,screwed into the end witch screws into the main holder.....and snapps off oh so eazy( the pilot is very hard and very thin at that end . so I made a ball head drive,with a stout tool blade holder , eazer adjstiablity and the pilot was now fixed into the valve guide. works like a dream. it also helps that myt quill has little to no movement unlike the tcm 25 with must have .020" clearance to wobble, the factory rep told me is has a built in cam action.......I told him what to do with his cam action....and smiled. I was the first to call him on the bluff.
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1 Attachment(s)
Speaking of elongated Tee-nuts....
Made these about 3 years ago, for a pump shop I help out periodically. Tomorrow, a flange is coming in needing modifications, these are almost certain to help out.
Some advantageous features, of the eight slots, four shorter than other four, have no reasonable explanation as to why. Realizing every part varies, and Tee slots are generalizations, these (in set of four) not only have differing tapped hole sizes, they aren't symmetrical to the length. If turned end for end it re-spaces the 'bolt circle' about 1.5 diameters, allowing more selection of best positions. In other words, they embody all positive attributes contained in this entire thread and various illustrious contributors.
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<a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-long-t-nuts-2">Long T-Nuts</a>
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When using these elongated multiple holed "T" nuts there is one other significant advantage particularly on a slotted flat rotary table they all for greatly expanding the useable diameter. If a dog point grub screw is inserted into the inner most hole and snugged down when you then use the hole that is outside of the table diameter or outside of a slot on your drill table as your clamping position, you are not nearly as likely to break out the end of the slot