End Mill Sharpening Fixture

[David Silver Steel]

Hi Doug,

At the risk of being a nuisance, I wonder how you did the oil blacking which seems to be very even and very black.
Researching on the internet, the general consensus seems to be that Boiled Linseed Oil seems to be the best, but many disagree. I have previously brought items to red heat, and then quenched them in either clean motor oil or in vegetable oil, but with mixed results.

Any advice regarding type of oil and temperature of the part would be appreciated. Also do you know if Aluminium can be blacked easily?

Kind Regards
David

[rossbotics]

Hi Doug,

At the risk of being a nuisance, I wonder how you did the oil blacking which seems to be very even and very black.
Researching on the internet, the general consensus seems to be that Boiled Linseed Oil seems to be the best, but many disagree. I have previously brought items to red heat, and then quenched them in either clean motor oil or in vegetable oil, but with mixed results.

Any advice regarding type of oil and temperature of the part would be appreciated. Also do you know if Aluminium can be blacked easily?

Kind Regards
David

Hi David
Thanks for your inquiry, I'll try and make this as short as possible, heat is the main factor in this process, the bigger your part is the more heat you need, when I say the more heat you need I referring to either an acetylene torch or a propane torch, if your blackening lets say a 1/2" X 1" bolt you could do this with a propane torch, anything larger than that would need more heat than that particular torch can deliver, the part needs to be purple when you submerse it in oil, after you bring the part out from the oil set it a fire with your torch and let it burn itself almost out, reheat the part again and again doing the same process as I described until you reach the color your looking for, Oh and I use burnt motor oil, it has lots of carbon in it which really helps the blackening, this takes a little practice

Thanks
Doug

[David Silver Steel]

Thanks Doug,
I have an old electric pottery kiln which I inherited from my Mother and converted to thermostatic control. That will go to 1,000 C so the heat is no problem if I leave it in the kiln for a while. Looking at your description, I think that I shall try about 300 degrees C to start with, although I think that a little hotter will perhaps be more effective. I do not have acetylene but shall burn it with a propane torch.
Thanks for your kind help, I shall report any findings.
Kind Regards
David

[Suttmike1]

You can use HSS but you will need to anneal the barrel and regarded it when done. Chances are, you don’t have a Parts oven big enough to heat treat it. Harden

[owen moore]

I see Bangood is selling a set of rifling buttons for some crazy low price. They look TIN coated. I have no idea if they are worth it or not.