Gently Removing an Electrical Box Punchout

**rgsparber** · Jun 26, 2020, 08:11 PM

Removing a punchout from an electrical box is easy if you can use a hammer and a screwdriver. But what if something delicate is already in the box? Or, what if there wasn't room to swing a hammer? One answer is probably already in your shop.

If you are interested, please see

https://rick.sparber.org/PunchoutRemoval.pdf

Your comments are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one of us.

Thanks,

Rick

**suther51** · Jun 29, 2020, 08:06 PM

Got me thinking about modified vice grip pliers

**rgsparber** · Jul 1, 2020, 05:38 PM

Originally Posted by suther51

Got me thinking about modified vice grip pliers

I'd sure like to see a picture when you get it done.

Rick

**Toolmaker51** · Dec 2, 2022, 09:36 PM

Originally Posted by suther51

Got me thinking about modified vice grip pliers

I can see usefulness there, especially for an electrician working aloft hanging conduit and rows of lights, like me,this coming spring!
Except for the electrician part, I'm just hanging hardware. But there'll be dozens of knockouts to remove.

**marksbug** · Jul 5, 2020, 07:50 PM

I have the "c" clamp style vice grips that would do great for this, as long as the punch out is 1" or biger, but a small c clamp would be eazy to use too for the small ones. I just happen to be doing all the electrickel in my 3rd shop Im just about done building. the effing square D POS breaker box has punchouts.... but the effing things are not centered withen each other. and the largest size is what I need... but... for some stupid reason they did not make that one round. they made the smaller ones the back edge of the biuger one... yup 2 different radii so the fitting wont go through.I had to take it all appart and put in milling ,achine and use a carbide hole saw to cut the holes.....you cant fix stupid. some know it all effing moron engineer. to top that off all the reciptical boxes are made for 1/2 emt fittings... I wanted to use 1" conduit throught, but there is none to be found due to covid 19.so I went with 3/4 and had to machine every box for 2-3 fittings. oh well Ive always got to be different and I like things the way I want them so Im used to it.

**rgsparber** · Jul 7, 2020, 03:06 PM

Originally Posted by marksbug

I have the "c" clamp style vice grips that would do great for this, as long as the punch out is 1" or biger, but a small c clamp would be eazy to use too for the small ones. I just happen to be doing all the electrickel in my 3rd shop Im just about done building. the effing square D POS breaker box has punchouts.... but the effing things are not centered withen each other. and the largest size is what I need... but... for some stupid reason they did not make that one round. they made the smaller ones the back edge of the biuger one... yup 2 different radii so the fitting wont go through.I had to take it all appart and put in milling ,achine and use a carbide hole saw to cut the holes.....you cant fix stupid. some know it all effing moron engineer. to top that off all the reciptical boxes are made for 1/2 emt fittings... I wanted to use 1" conduit throught, but there is none to be found due to covid 19.so I went with 3/4 and had to machine every box for 2-3 fittings. oh well Ive always got to be different and I like things the way I want them so Im used to it.

Marksbug,

What would you do differently if there is a next time? I'm sure you learned a lot from this experience.

Rick
(Engineer)

**bimmer1980** · Jul 7, 2020, 05:50 PM

Originally Posted by marksbug

I have the "c" clamp style vice grips that would do great for this, as long as the punch out is 1" or biger, but a small c clamp would be eazy to use too for the small ones. I just happen to be doing all the electrickel in my 3rd shop Im just about done building. the effing square D POS breaker box has punchouts.... but the effing things are not centered withen each other. and the largest size is what I need... but... for some stupid reason they did not make that one round. they made the smaller ones the back edge of the biuger one... yup 2 different radii so the fitting wont go through.I had to take it all appart and put in milling ,achine and use a carbide hole saw to cut the holes.....you cant fix stupid. some know it all effing moron engineer. to top that off all the reciptical boxes are made for 1/2 emt fittings... I wanted to use 1" conduit throught, but there is none to be found due to covid 19.so I went with 3/4 and had to machine every box for 2-3 fittings. oh well Ive always got to be different and I like things the way I want them so Im used to it.

FYI, there are sizing rules by the NEC for the co suit size, box size, minimum distance from the nipple to the far side of the box per conduit size, etc. Hence, the reason the boxes were limited in size. While I'm not an electrician, I did pick up a couple of technical handbooks for the NEC code. (I'm an engineer.....)

I did all of my garage with conduit, so I have worked with it ... ;-) There's over 50 outlets, so it was a fair bit of conduit and boxes .......

My main panel has six 2" conduits coming into it. To meet code, I used a 18x18 junction box below the panel. This is due to the rules I refered to above.

Also keep in mind, that unless you are using larger wire that requires the 1" or larger wire, you are limited in the number of circuits per conduit before you start de-rating. Generally, the code encourages you to run one or two circuits per conduit.

I get that the main panel punch outs were not good for you, but generally a set of dikes or a punch out tool work nicely.... While I'm sure the milling machine did a nice job, that was a bit over kill, but use what you have! :-)

I have a hand held hydraulic punch tool that will knock out 1/2 to 2" trade size holes.

Hopefully this is helpful, let me know if you have questions...

**BLLG** · Jul 20, 2020, 03:52 PM

Sorry, if you are using a hammer and screwdriver you are working to hard. I use a screwdriver and my linesman pliers and where there is little clearance I grab the my flat nose pliers. This method works where there is less clearance than using a clamp. I can do that faster than you can get the clamp screwed on. Of course I have forty years of experiance and thousands of KO's.

**marksbug** · Dec 4, 2022, 08:21 AM

yes most knock outs are easy to remove.some are a bitch and sometimes you want a different hole size. yes there are rules.there are also workarounds. and doing things the way you want it for a particular reason. things I would change or do different? make that barn taller by at least 2 feet. buy all materials before covid& the demoncrats shot the prices up3x & more of what they were when I started,tin roof,witch it may get over the shingles any way.longer foyer,lighter color siding it's light brown now but that sure does heat up probably 4x as much as white does. run a few extra wires, extra box or 2, awning.and more. but my pockets are not deep.

**Toolmaker51** · Dec 4, 2022, 12:09 PM

Like marksbug points out, many of our pockets were deeper a couple years back.........until a crew of freaks, morons and puppets stole what they couldn't win.

I have materials collected (surplus, great auctions, farm sales, closeouts, and the deals you trip over) over a seriously long period of time for my shop, especially wire bought when the surplus of construction supplies flooded market after Hurricane Katrina.
What seemed then like a lot of outlay turned out better investment than ANY bank or saving would have done.

To start, I laid a floor plan beforehand, estimating total length from main panel to each load. Arranged loads so their boxes are near each other, because some will run more often then others, handy way of restricting amperage needed from the utility company.

A pyramid of brown/ orange/yellow/green awaits in the corner.
Not using conduit; found 360 feet 8" x 8" wireway (like cable tray but sheetmetal with a hinged lid), SOW-SJO 12/4 & 10/4 cord, L16-20 480v twist-lock plugs and connectors. While no panel yet, have disconnects for the various branches, local disconnects will be twist-locks on the cord drops, nothing laying on the floor.
Still need 1 pin & sleeve connector, handful of 30A or 40A plugs for welders.
Almost (90%?) all are 440v 3Ø, have VFD's for 2 that are 50Hz. 1 leg will supply 277v for lights. Will use VFD's or buck transformers for 2 or 3 that are 240v 3Ø.
Conduit will run inside perimeter for 120v, there's a disc/ belt sander that wants 240v 1Ø.

But today isn't electrical project. Found perhaps 160' of Sched 40 3" pipe cut into 5' sections (used of course, but 'ring' as being very solid). Researching how to splice those for columns, pillars to support a mezzanine. It's also been planned awhile, 2 years ago got 35 panels of fiberglass decking grate 4' x 12'. Normal price is $300 & up new. I got them at $50 each for the quantity, and a long drive, Feb of 21. That diesel compared to now would add about $5.00 each.
Having some idea what people ask $.$$-wise tells you when to jump. But knowing price only a third of the equation, be SURE to add the COST.

Regarding deep pockets, I never had them. As son of Depression era parents, learned it's worthwhile having a l-ooooong grocery list, alphabetize and look for less expensive ways to check items off. Nowadays, it's in my mobile phone. It sees more use than making/ taking calls.
Unless talking with a friend west of Dallas Fort Worth. He knows a bit about collecting material, about 50x more than I.