How To Extract Damaged Bolt Or Screw

[tiger carpenter]

This video demonstrates the extraction / removal of the damaged head bolts or screws, using the damaged bolt extraction bits.


Damaged Bolts & Screws Removal Kit:


https://amzn.to/3aocb4l


DeWalt Cordless 20V Brushless XR Trim Router:


https://amzn.to/3mD2DIu


DeWalt Trim Router Round Sub Base Replacement:


https://amzn.to/3Bx0eFA


There are quite a few damaged bolt remover kits, and I tried nearly all of them. I believe this HSS hardened steel works very well, as shown in this video.


Once you remove the broken bolts or screws, it is advisable to replace them with the stainless steel, heavy duty equivalent, so that you wouldn't run into the same problem in the future.

[BuffaloJohn]

A note on fasteners - Phillips drive (+) is designed to protect the driving bit by caming out which wrecks the screw. So - a socket cap screw would be better than a Phillips if it had a Robertson (square), an Allen (hex) or Torx (star) or similar.

As for stainless steel, not really what would solve the problem of the head getting wrecked by torque. Stainless Steel is not harder - it is actually soft and brittle. A hardened screw would be what you want.

As for button head - those have little purchase for the driver - button head have a pretty small amount of metal to resist forces. A low head Socket Head Cap Screw (SHCS) is a much better fastener to use.

[tiger carpenter]

I used hardened stainless steel. I always buy those. They indeed are very hard, hard to cut using hacksaw, never saw the philips or other head type to get damaged, even when using impact driver.
For this particular case, I tighten them by hand, not to crack the trim router acrylic sub base, not because of the bolts.

I used stainless steel washers to avoid the acrylic chipping from the repetitive attaching and removing the base.

It is flat button head, not the mushroom, but I don't think it matters in this application. These bolts are not carrying any load or withstand big forces. They just hold the base to the router.

Even low SHCS wouldn't be flush in this base, the holes are pretty shallow.

Thanks for your input! We always learn something new.

[BuffaloJohn]

At 2:53 your video says you used a M4 12mm button head ss bolt. Now you say you are using a flat button head - there is no such thing. Your video show what looks like a pan head screw. A flat head has a flat top and a taper to the thread at an angle of 82 degrees.

As for head height, a standard SHCS is 4mm, a pan head is 3.3mm and a low head is 2.8mm.

Also, the A286 SS alloy screws are about 4/5 the tensile strength of steel screws.

As for hardness you see with a hacksaw, SS is hard on cutting tools because the heat of cutting is not carried away by the chips and is retained in the uncut surface, which causes the tool to overheat without cooling. Same thing with drilling.

[tiger carpenter]

Sure man you win, I don't want to argue about it.
I'm not a fasteners professional. I was using hardened stainless steel fasteners for 30 years, but because I live in Asia, nobody knows a difference between a mushroom / button / flat head / pancake and alike. When you buy something you have to show them the sample, or just repeat last order and you get what you want.

Not sure what your intentions are, I feel like you are trying to discredit my choice.

I can assure you these bolts will last for the rest of my life, and my sons life, and my grandsons life. The router will more likely break sooner than these bolts.

I live in tropics, and everything here would rust in few days, so the stainless steel is the way to go. I buy the hardened stainless steel by default, and use it for everything.

I also do a lot of cutting and drilling in sometimes very thick stainless steel, and I put the material in the freezer prior to processing, or if it's too big, I put ice cubes on the cut line / hole to be. It really helps to process stainless steel / hardened stainless steel materials. I use cobalt tools for the stainless steel processing.

Anyway thanks again for your thorough input.

Here is the link to Phillips Button Head Bolt, which looks like those I used in this applications, but I bought them in the physical store near where I live, and on they are HARDENED STAINLESS STEEL, and slightly more expensive than 304 Stainless Steel. I assume they went through some heat treatment process.

https://www.lazada.com.my/products/s...kaAo4yEALw_wcB

So IF you believe it's wrong to call them button head bolts, I am sorry to have stirred up your peace.

The heads looks a bit flattened to me, but they are not totally flat, there is some slight arch.