Some kind of clutch or disengagement would be needed to operate manually if the drive is wormed, maybe even hypoid. Long as dial or readout is present, a low speed could be parked very close to the desired setting. I've got one big ol' spoked cast iron steering wheel [likely a farm tractor], a 50's style spinner knob waiting for 'just-right' drive motor. Tony Foale used gas springs connected to machine base and knee instead of counterweight. I have lots of rotary tables, indexers, fixtures etc; heavy stuff making adjustable counterweight worthwhile. An arm, a sliding weight or some chain and can full of lead.
Since no shop I've worked EVER had a designated 'cranker-dude'. Seems odd though, since he's mentioned frequently. . .

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