https://youtu.be/ZahPkPLUNBY
<!-- BEGIN /var/www/html/homemadetools/protected/modules/zeus/views/tool/postUpdate.php -->
Thanks Retro Steam Tech! We've added your Morse Taper Ejection Method to our Machining category,
as well as to your builder page: Retro Steam Tech's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-morse-taper-ejection-method"> <img src="/uploads/248122/homemade-morse-taper-ejection-method.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/homemade-morse-taper-ejection-method">Morse Taper Ejection Method</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Retro+Steam+Tech">Retro Steam Tech</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/taper'>taper</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/tailstock'>tailstock</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
<!-- END /var/www/html/homemadetools/protected/modules/zeus/views/tool/postUpdate.php -->
Thank you! Thank you! Some of MT2 devices eject fine but for some it is a real bear to eject the MT2 taper.
Bowing my head in shame I will admit I have used vice grips and screwdrivers.
Duh, of course make up a spacer, why didn't I think of that.
Thanks again! I was wondering how to hold a MT2 taper so that I could drill and tap it now I do not have to! Probably saved me at least a full day.
Ralph
This is great. I'm totally stealing this and making one tonight. I might just cut a piece of pipe though.
just buy tanged arbors for the drill and closed arbors for the tailstock or cut the tang off. With open threaded arbors as used in a mill buy some button head screws and screw one in for use in the lathe tailstock. Incidentally most pedestal drills have a hollow spindle so you can also use a drawbar if you wish.
I used to use a couple of old parallels but the spacer is easier as you don't have to hold it in place. Glad you found it usefulQuote:
Originally Posted by Ralphxyz
That would probably work just as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_robotics
Brilliant !
Of course my dead center which does not eject does not have a shoulder so a spacer will not help me for that.
I definitely am making up a spacer for my drill chucks and other items that do not eject.
Ralph
Congratulations Retro Steam Tech - your Morse Taper Ejection Method is the Homemade Tool of the Week!
Another big week around here, but this is a clever build, which was inspired by a similar xynudu build, and then later inspired a similar machining 4 all build. We may have the pleasure of seeing this idea iterated on again.
Some more nice builds from this week:
Copper Washers by editor@glue-it.com
Refillable Spray Container by Liquidhandwash
Work Table by Tuomas
Sawhorse by orioncons36
Rapid Tailstock Ejector by machining 4 all
Electric Foundry by cranktown city
Metal Bandsaw by warsztatOdZera
Drill Alignment Method by Tuomas
Milling Machine Way Cover by engineer steve
Sled Stop by winkys workshop
Crosscut Sled by winkys workshop
Tow Hooks by Making Stuff
Wood Lathe by Mazay
Adjustable Drill Bit by RCTURKA
Mini Metal Bender by machining 4 all
Motorized Cargo Bicycle by Kwandotechnic
Mini Lathe Oil Ports by Claudio HG
Retro Steam Tech - you'll be receiving a $25 online gift card, in your choice of Amazon, PayPal, or bitcoin. Please PM me your current email address and gift card choice and I'll get it sent over right away.
This is your 2nd Homemade Tool of the Week win. Here are both of your Homemade Tool of the Week winning tools. Congrats again :thumbsup:
<div id="blocks"> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/simple-bench-vice-mod-79238#post157936"> <img src="/uploads/233024/homemade-vise-handle-modification-2.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/simple-bench-vice-mod-79238#post157936">Vise Handle Modification</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Retro+Steam+Tech">Retro Steam Tech</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/vise'>vise</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/handle'>handle</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/modification'>modification</a> </div> </div> </div> <div class="block b1 pngfix"> <div class="bimg"> <div> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/simple-ejection-method-lathe-tailstock-morse-taper-attachments-84390#post177399"> <img src="/uploads/248122/homemade-morse-taper-ejection-method.jpeg"/> </a> </div> </div> <div class="head pngfix"></div> <div class="left pngfix"></div> <div class="right pngfix"></div> <div class="blockover b1 pngfix"> <div class="title"> <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/simple-ejection-method-lathe-tailstock-morse-taper-attachments-84390#post177399">Morse Taper Ejection Method</a> <span> by <a href="https://www.homemadetools.net/builder/Retro+Steam+Tech">Retro Steam Tech</a></span> </div> <div class="tags">tags: <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/taper'>taper</a>, <a href='https://www.homemadetools.net/tag/tailstock'>tailstock</a> </div> </div> </div> </div>
I've just used a very large open end wrench, or a very large adjustable wrench, between the tailstock housing and the taper attached device, same principle. ram slides through until the taper attached device butts up against the wrench and the wrench against the housing. This brass block takes up less space, so now I have to go make one for each of my lathes! Thanks for a brilliant idea.
Just drop a suitable ball bearing in behind the dead center and you can pop it right out.
Rest assured; lathe size is not part of ejection dilemma. This case, too short for a drift through the quill slot, as well. We had a 5MT held in a big Lodge & Shipley. I made a collar, it did the trick, most dependable, damage free of method of all. However, not all tooling has a diameter to interact with.
You cannot 'just drop' something in and trust it to work. Too small, it can foul the screw, or quill travel, a couple thou too large,it could foul the taper itself.
A reliable measurement is simple. 1] Roll up a short 'cigar' of modeling clay. 2] Retract quill just short of bottoming out. 3] Insert the tooling just short of seating. 4] Remove and measure the cigar length. 5] Turn a cylinder (using small end of taper as guide) that length + .100 or so.
I'd use soft steel, or press ferrous material into the slug, to ease removal, if called for.
I did say "appropriate sized" and I prefer the ball bearing for a dead center. No fishing it out, it just rolls back out of the taper. Sorry if the suggestion irritates you. I've been doing that for 40 years without a problem.
Well I guess I said "suitable", same implication
bainbob, Didn't direct my comment to shortchange your post, nor suggest irritation. 40 years indicates a successful technique. 'Appropriate' or 'Suitable' is too tempting a size range for a neophyte, without some guidance.There are loads here.
This is probably a dumb question, but why not just attach the spacer to the tailstock (D/F tape, if you don't want to drill and tap or weld)? Seems like the only thing it would affect is a tool that wouldn't have been kicked out via tang or long taper before it reached the limit of your tailstock spindle. And what lathe can't use a little "gold" bling?
Quote:
Originally Posted by schuylergrace
That would work just as well.