Playing with the nozzle shape will give your heatgun some serious capabilities in smaller or complicated areas.Adding a reostat makes it a super tool for precise temp application.
Looking this up online: Draper Expert SW3, 19227 250g Reel of K60/40 Tin / Lead Solder Wire - and no longer available as it contains lead.
I haven't tried this with lead free solder, will have to have a go. I must admit that I pick up reels of solder at car boots as these are normally the older lead based solders and much better for a lot of the hobby work that I do.
Here's an image of the simple rivet anvil that I made to support the rivet head whilst I hammer it closed.
It's made from a piece of 1/4 inch thick mild steel and has a 4mm blind hole in the end. In this hole sits a piece of silver steel that has a concave impression to support the rivet. I hardened and tempered this piece of silver steel. The punch is not fixed in the bracket just in case it needs changing.
Also, I sandwich the mild steel bracket with a sheet of aluminium in the vice as this then adds some compliance and so more easily maintains the clamp load. You might think this piece of soft aluminium would work against you, but it has compliance and so allows the force to be maintained after micro movements of the parts. Either way the anvil stays in place better with the aluminium than without.
I've machined the Phosphor Bronze rear axle bearings and bolted them into place with 12BA bolts - the 1.05mm diameter tapping drill is difficult to deal with let alone the tap. Anyway, all 6 fixings are in place now.
Then I just had to put an axle in place, this is just temporary as I need to make a differential yet
The engine was designed so that the drawing in elevation would fit onto a sheet of A4 paper. Then here it is sat on top of my A4 sized notebook. The traction engine is 263mm long, 122mm wide and 176mm high.
Sadly the old Black & Decker hot air gun gave up after 27 years. So, I had a look around and bought one of these Seekone Heat Guns. It's just arrived, so will see how I get on with it. But, I mention it as it has temperature control (sadly I think open loop) and a range of nozzles that can focus the air:
Will update you all once I try it out. Best regards,
I've had some fun making the flywheel for the Burrell. It's only small, but took some work to machine it from solid cast iron.
The initial flywheel design was a tad heavy.
So, I had another go at visually improving the flywheel.
My quick video of the steps in the process, hopefully you will enjoy the "hand powered belt sander"
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