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Thread: Spindex Mods and Attachment

  1. #11
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    Very nice write up and a set of pictures. I’m kinda interested in your setup techniques to prep for getting the bore parallel to the bottom. I’ve seen but not used various approaches to make a bore parallel too easy or more surfaces and frankly none of them leave me with a warm sense of confidence. Actually a video would explain a lot.

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  2. #12
    Supporting Member rossbotics's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metric_taper View Post
    I had to slip in a .003" piece of brass shim stock to stop the spindle from rocking when using it on the surface grinder. That one was 20 years ago. I purchased one last year that was better, but still not as tight as yours.
    You got very lucky. Is there a manufacture name and tool supplier that your wife got this from? A link would be very nice.
    Hi metric_taper
    The wife said she got it off e-bay, below is the link to the same one she said she got me

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-5...frcectupt=true

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    Last edited by rossbotics; Jan 4, 2019 at 08:43 PM.
    Comments are always welcome
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  3. #13
    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rossbotics View Post
    Hi metric_taper
    The wife said she got it off e-bay, below is the link to the same she got me

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-5...frcectupt=true
    That is the same one I got last year. Note that "Saturn" trademark symbol. I've gotten several of their lathe chucks, and found the runout to be very good. Not as good as the Bison brand, but they are low cost. It was that trademark symbol that enticed me to replace the original spin index. It's better, but I was disappointed in surface finish of the spindle and it's bore.
    Last edited by metric_taper; Jan 4, 2019 at 10:05 PM.

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    Thanks rossbotics! We've added your Spindex Modifications and Attachment to our Machining category,
    as well as to your builder page: rossbotics's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:




  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by suther51 View Post
    Wonderfull set up. I could see milling hexes on the dumb end of some drill bits I have. I seem to remember the mill in the pictures is a hf mill is that correct? Been looking at them. Also been looking at a stinel sv4 mill. Would like the German made one but the time may not be right. Thanks
    Eric
    Thanks suther51 for your comment
    Yea my mill is one of those red ones from HF, it's a lot of milling machine for the money, I put a 4" riser block under the column, that really extended its capabilities, I don't know much about those two other mills you described, but after owning this mill from HF I would buy another one, like I said it's a lot of mill for the bucks

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    Doug
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  6. The Following User Says Thank You to rossbotics For This Useful Post:

    PJs (Jan 6, 2019)

  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyfoale View Post
    Doug,

    Those mods make a big difference the cheap spindexers. I did very similar for my T&C grinder. I did consider making a tail stock but so far I have not had need for one.

    There is one extra modification that I did to mine. As they come it is very hard to remove all endfloat and still have a smooth rotation so I decided to keep it loaded with a spring. I didn't have one of the right size and I used a bunch of O-rings instead. Lack of endfloat was critical for my main application and this fixed it perfectly. Details are shown in a previous post http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/h...6205#post83248

    I also had a need for smooth low friction combined longitudinal and rotational motion and so I converted it to work as an air bearing when needed. This is only of use in specific applications.
    Thanks Tony, what you did to your spindexer was great, never considered sharpening ball end mills or end mills with radiused corners, one would have to make an attachment basically with your design to achieve those functions, the end play was a problem as well, I had considered winding a spring but never thought about the O-ring method, I did drill a 1/4" hole through the housing and through the spindle and a 1/4" hole in the collet tightening knob to use two 1/4" long punches for tightening and loosening the collets.
    Thanks for all the heads up
    Doug
    Comments are always welcome
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    tonyfoale (Jan 7, 2019)

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    Quote Originally Posted by rossbotics View Post
    Thanks Tony, I did drill a 1/4" hole through the housing and through the spindle and a 1/4" hole in the collet tightening knob to use two 1/4" long punches for tightening and loosening the collets.
    Thanks for all the heads up
    Doug
    Yes tightening the collet is a problem. I could not drill a hole as you have because then I could not have the air bearing. Instead I keyed the locating plate to the spindle and that is big enough diameter to hold well enough by hand. My spindexer is mainly (not exclusively) used on my T&C grinder and the grinding loads are very low so the collet does not need to be super tight.

  10. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJs View Post
    Really enjoyed the Great write up, and build Doug! There are a ton of these mods out there but none done to your quality and fully built add-on tailstock. The thing i really like is; for a days'+ of work you can make a cheap n' cheerful item like this into a precision instrument that will serve more purposes and a long time!
    Thanks for sharing your take on this and Kudo's to your wife for her inspiring you to take it to your level!

    PJ
    Thank You PJs
    I'll tell the wife what you said, she'll get a kick outa that

    Thanks Again Doug
    Comments are always welcome
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  11. The Following User Says Thank You to rossbotics For This Useful Post:

    PJs (Jan 7, 2019)

  12. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by wizard69 View Post
    Very nice write up and a set of pictures. I’m kinda interested in your setup techniques to prep for getting the bore parallel to the bottom. I’ve seen but not used various approaches to make a bore parallel too easy or more surfaces and frankly none of them leave me with a warm sense of confidence. Actually a video would explain a lot.
    Thank You wizard69
    It's actually just as easy to locate from any reference point no matter where you start, you have to start from somewhere, the next thing is to have a known angle plate of absolutely trueness, you can check your angle plate if you have the right tools, you have to flip the part 180° and shim the part the amount it was out from the opposite side, that's just a starter, you then have to check it again from its base side, you most likely will have to use .0002" shim stock from there on out, I guess I should have made a video of that process, it is a time consuming process to get those kinda results, I assumed most everybody new how that was done, guess I was wrong.

    Thank You for your interest

    Doug
    Comments are always welcome
    Doug

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    Quote Originally Posted by rossbotics View Post
    Thanks suther51 for your comment
    Yea my mill is one of those red ones from HF, it's a lot of milling machine for the money, I put a 4" riser block under the column, that really extended its capabilities, I don't know much about those two other mills you described, but after owning this mill from HF I would buy another one, like I said it's a lot of mill for the bucks

    Thanks
    Doug
    Thanks Doug for the reply, funny how things work out. Submitted an offer of about 20% off for the stinel mill and it was accepted. They are not very common this side of the pond as they say but have a reputation for being very ridged and accurate. They are described as one half the size of a Bridgeport. Comes with factory built in power feed with clutches and gear changes driven by drive shaft from one of the v belts in the back. Built in coolant also. Gonna have to step up my game now. Gonna be a tight fit in my shop but a metal lathe and a mill is a decades old dream come true.

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    Eric
    Last edited by suther51; Jan 7, 2019 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Link did not work

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