Nope, the cam doesn't. Use a woodruff, instead Yamaha used a round pin inserted through a hole in the shaft.
Printable View
Nope, the cam doesn't. Use a woodruff, instead Yamaha used a round pin inserted through a hole in the shaft.
Take three on ignition switch placement. I decided to place it here, under the thank: Less noticeable both on the switch side and the back of the switch. The Delrin cover I made for it hides it reasonably well. Who would think such a simple decision would be so difficult.
Might be a good solution to keys and keyfob rubbing on triple clamps and ruining the paint and/or finish of lacquer.
Learnt something today: When I bought this POS it had aluminium mags on it, plus it had a spare set of spoked wheels. I was going to use the spoked wheels on this build, until I discovered the price of stainless spokes, $250. So in an effort to save some money I thought I'd use the mags, so pulled out the front wheel and polished up the bared aluminium prior to painting it black. When I pulled the rear wheel out to polish I thought that looks really small, so I checked on the sidewall - 16". Grrr, no good for a cafe racer, so I wasted all that time polishing the damn wheel. So, $250 for spokes it is, damn, damn, damn!
With the cost of vintage bike parts going crazy over the last 10+ years, I bet you could pay for your spokes and maybe more if you polish the other mag and put them on ebay. Especially with these being popular bikes for all fashion of builds. A few years back I needed a cylinder for a 1979 Yamaha IT250F I was restoring... It was crazy what people were asking, AND GETTING, for absolute junk. Ebay has made restoration and project bikes much easier to put together, however the prices have went crazy, but I digress.....Quote:
Originally Posted by th62
Great build by the way, I am always excited to see what you've done next when I see a notification for this thread.
Thanks for the critique. I have quite a few parts I'll put up for sale at some time: Battery carrier, side panels, carbs, wheels, wiring looms (one brand new, came as a spare with the bike?), switchgear. I did try to sell locally, pick up only, but all the replies came from interstate, so at some time, I'll have to look at postal fees I guess.
If you're in the USA, look into https://xpsship.com/ we used them with our business for some time, normally better rates than we could find elsewhere. No special requirements, either a credit card or a bank account with get you going and then you can ship by different shippers at commercial discount rates.Quote:
Originally Posted by th62
Slack day today, just made up a few static timing lights of different design. First one uses a 9 volt battery, so had to solder a resistor in the line to cut the voltage down. Second one works off the bike battery, so also had to use a resistor. Third one uses a 3 volt button battery, so, so resistor required. Why so many? I was bored!
Does anybody really know what time it is?
Well, another day spent on the points cam, must have made about a hundred of these bloody things before I figured out how to do it" cut the keyway first, then mark where the ramps are then file, check, file, check, ad nauseum! Finally got it right, close enough to say spot on, statically at least. I also added a felt oiler bracket to the backing plate and moved the condenser up near the coil. Looks a lot neater now, and quicker to set the points with only one set. I don't like cutting key ways on the lathe, so I used a 2mm end mill on the mil. The key is a 2.5mm round pin suck in the shaft crossways, so only had to cut the keyway down around 6mm.
Does anybody care ?
Yes, there appears to be several of us who are interested in this build. Perhaps you should unfollow the thread and go elsewhere if you are not...Quote:
Originally Posted by asterix
Very nice work! I don't mind points either, but I'm curious, did you look into something like the Petronix electronic ignition type or just wanted the challenge?Quote:
Originally Posted by th62
I do care! I was replying to post #129 asking «if anybody was knowing what time it was?» The question seemed to me to be out of order in the discussion so I replyed « Who care's » as I was more interested in the progression of this rebuilt than the time it was that's all.
I tried to find the timing in degrees for that engine but found nothing...
Oops, my mistake and I apologize. There seems to be a rash of folks posting mean spirited stuff and I'm really into this thread, so I, incorrectly mind you, took offense when I thought you meant to give offense. Sorry man.Quote:
Originally Posted by asterix
Did some more buffing on the front rim, came up reasonably well, I ground the edge down and managed to get rid of the lever marks, but as you can see in pic four the pitting is very bad and very deep, no way of getting rid of that. Pic five is the rear rim. I still have to grind down the edge of the rim to remove the lever marks. Very badly pitted and the area between the nipple lands is very uneven. I'll attack that next but not sure if I'll use them, whilst they look nice and shiny , get up to within a few inches of them and the pitting doesn't look nice. More procrastination required I think.
Nope, haven't looked into any of the commercially available electronic ignitions. Haven't looked into any of the commercially available anything actually, too damn expensive and this is supposed to be a budget build. Although, if I looked at how much I've spent so far, it's hardly 'budget'! I have looked at building a hall effect system, I have all the electronic parts, just haven't got around to building one yet, one day. Plus, I tend to like mechanical things in case you haven't noticed.
Degree wheel is about the only way to find that out. I did put a degree wheel on it a while back but forgotten the numbers.
Wheels won't be the first thing anybody will look at at first glance. There are so many interesting other parts that will attract attention.
And the rear rim, came out better than I expected. I used an air belt sander to try and even out the area between spoke holes, doesn't look too bad now. It has a couple of damaged bits still evident which I'll try and resolve with a nylon fibre wheel. I may just use these I think, will look good once spoked up to polished hubs with polished spokes. I'm polishing the exposed edges on the aluminium wheels also, once I've painted them and exposed the polished edges I'll compare them. Still not keen on a fat 16" at the rear though.
I don't blame you one bit. No sense replacing what works or what you can make for much less money.Quote:
Originally Posted by th62
Those wheels look great, You are the only one that will notice anything wrong with them. That bike has way to may other cool things going for one to be distracted by minor pitting in the wheels.
Well that stinks...Quote:
Originally Posted by th62
By the way, this is a cut/paste of the post I received in an email notification, but was not shown here when I clicked on the link.
Rikk , thank you for the cut/paste of TH62 thread . We will follow him on the other forum.
Retry: Synced the carbs and checked the PMA today. Bike runs beautifully now, idles nicely, revs cleanly, no spitting or hesitation. PMA/reg/rect output is 14.6 volts, so happy with that as well. Timing is spot on on both cylinders, so the single points cam also works well and the filter and cooler deliver a good oil supply with no leaks. Fancy that, all the engine mods worked as planned! This is my homemade manometer I use for syncing, super easy to use, gives a good, stable reading.
Now it's back to cycle parts. I was going to spoke the wheels next, but can't get any stainless spokes for the rear wheel, so I'll have to work on something else: I've been thinking of hunting around for a clagged 650 motor, I'm missing working on motors already.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJ-BRcUOwKk Sound is a bit strange though. Trust me though, without mufflers this thing sounds great!
Retry: Synced the carbs and checked the PMA today. Bike runs beautifully now, idles nicely, revs cleanly, no spitting or hesitation. PMA/reg/rect output is 14.6 volts, so happy with that as well. Timing is spot on on both cylinders, so the single points cam also works well and the filter and cooler deliver a good oil supply with no leaks. Fancy that, all the engine mods worked as planned! This is my homemade manometer I use for syncing, super easy to use, gives a good, stable reading.
Now it's back to cycle parts. I was going to spoke the wheels next, but can't get any stainless spokes for the rear wheel, so I'll have to work on something else: I've been thinking of hunting around for a clagged 650 motor, I'm missing working on motors already.
Not sure if I posted this mod before, just in case, here it is a remote spin on filter and cooler mod.
This took a lot of work, I had to modify the right side engine cover, machine up a new cover for the now gone strainer, machine a spin on filter mount, fabricate some new engine mounts to hold the mount, fabricate a mount for the cooler, machine up a few stainless fittings for the mod, plus a few other bits and pieces.
I drilled and tapped the front of the sidecover. I hate jobs like this, there's always the fear of stuffing it up and ruining a part, but, all went well: drilled out the oil pump gallery to 10.8mm, tapped it to M12 x 1.25 for 40mm to cover the gallery to the old oil strainer, countersunk the top of the hole to allow for an O ring and inserted the stainless spigot I turned up, looks quite alright.
Whilst I had the cover off, I removed the kickstart mechanism and turned up a couple of bungs to cover the hole.
Next I binned the strainer cover and machined up a new one, which I think looks a lot better than just screwing a right angle, screw in fitting on the original part. Took a bit of doing this part as the outer side had to be angled to follow the angle of the side cover. Rather than use an ugly screw in fitting, I spun up a stainless barb and shrunk it in place.
Next came the spin on filter mount. I made this from a lump of 25mm ally, shaped it to the desired shape, drilled and tapped the side for mounting screws, then mounted it in the lathe to machine the oil gallery recess, once done I drilled a central hole for oil intake and a second hole through to the recess for the output. I then spun up a threaded piece on which to spin the filter, shrunk fit it into the housing, turned up a stainless, threaded barb, screwed it into the spin on filter threaded piece, sandwiching the filter mount between. There was insufficient space for a screw in output barb, so I spun up a barb for an interference fit and pressed it into place.
For my next trick I fabricated some new engine mounts on which to mount the filter mount and oil cooler. The engine mounts were basically the same as the original ones I made, the right has been extended downward around 25mm for the filter mount and both drilled and tapped at the front edge for mounting a cooler bracket.
The cooler bracket is just a piece of 3mm ally bent at a right angle so the cooler mounts on top. I had to cut some 10mm ally tube to fit between the cooler mounting fins and recess the mounting bracket holes a little so I could install some rubber grommets to insulate the cooler from vibration. To hold it in place I cut some 6mm bolts to size and spun up some threaded positive stop, ally T nuts.
Last of all, I polished everything - of course!
All the parts sat around for a while while I awaited the arrival of some AN fittings for the cooler. Damn expensive these things, $60 for two. When they arrived I mounted everything and linked everything with rubber hose. Looks quite all right, not overly visible.
Quite a big job this one, but all worked out well in the end and the system worked well when I started the bike.
Stock, the lube system works like this: The motor is wet sump, so oil is contained in the sump. The oil pump is is mounted in the right side cover and linked to the sump via large gallery across the motor. So, oil is drawn from the sump, into the pump and out through a 10mm gallery toward the front of the right side engine cover. The gallery is bunged at the front of the cover and another gallery drilled at a right angle, just before the bung delivers oil to the right side oil strainer behind the round cover on the right side engine cover, the oil is strained and then fed through a small 8mm gallery across the front of the motor delivering oil to the motor. The system is low pressure due to roller big ends and mains, around 6-10psi cold, and around 1psi hot.
The modified system works thus: Oil is drawn from the sump via the oil pump, pumped up the 10mm gallery, past the right angle gallery to the original strainer (now blocked by the stainless screw in barb) out the stainless barb on the front of the side cover and on to the remote filter via a rubber hose linking the two. Clean oil exits the spin on filter via the push fit barb to the cooler via a rubber linking filter and cooler . Cool oil is then delivered to the round strainer housing cover, fills the void (left empty by the removal of the strainer) and into the 8mm gallery across the front of the engine delivering clean, cool oil to the engine.
The sump also contains a strainer through which oil to the pump is strained. Ideally, the spin on filter would be better placed here, however this involves fitting the spin on filter under the sump, leaving it prone to being struck by speed bumps, rocks and road debris. The standard sump filter is prone to being holed at one corner where there is a higher pressure load, so I fabricated a cover from light ally to protect the corner of the strainer.
The TX was fitted with a twin cable throttle, one cable for each carb. Syncing the carbs was accomplished by adjusting the inline adjuster on the cable, a tedious, time consuming, nonsensical way of doing things. So, I designed and built a simpler system consisting of a cable splitter and two knurled adjusters, one fitted to the side of each carb.
I bought a single cable throttle on eBay and looked around for a splitter. All I could find was a plastic POS or a steel one with no means of securing it, so it would just flop around under the tank. Not to my liking, so I machined up a splitter from a lump of ally. I machined a step and drilled two holes for mounting the splitter to the upper engine mounts I made. Next, I bored a 14mm hole through and threaded it each end to a depth of 11mm with a 5/8"UNF thread, then machined up two end caps with a thread to match, knurling the knobs with a scissor knurled I made some years ago.
After this I turned up a brass slide, drilled three 1.5mm holes for cables and later used a slit saw to cut a slit to each hole for the three cables. When finished, I assembled the splitter, sealed the cable holes in the end caps and dunked it in an anodising bath I put together. I sealed the splitter prior to anodising as anodising leaves a thin veneer of oxidised ally over the surface which would have decreased the size of the bore.
To make syncing easier I turned up two 35mm long stainless, threaded adjusters, knurled the end, drilled through with 1.5mm hole, and bored out the cable end to 5.5mm to accommodate the cables. I then made up two ally brackets to screw them into and fitted them to the top of each carb.
Having synced the carbs with the standard inline cable adjusters before and now synced them using this new system, it is chalk and cheese: Much simpler and a lot quicker.
I nutted out a simplified schematic for the TX last night and did a little work on it today. Rather than one harness, I decided on two, one for lights and one for ignition and charging. Five wires for the lights run up the left side of the backbone for lights, another three run up a harness on the right for ignition. I've included some earth cabling in the harness rather than just depending on earthing through the frame.
Once I've routed all the cables to their destinations, I'll zip tie them then wrap the harness removing the zips as I go. Having one harness for ignition and charging circuits and another for lighting simplifies fault faulting and cuts down on the number of colours needed in the harnesses.
I've ordered some stainless spokes, should be here this week. Can only get front spokes at the moment for some reason, seems to be a shortage on rears. As soon as they arrive I'll repolish the hub and rims and spoke it up.
Have you checked with Buchanan? They can usually make spokes for anything they don't stock them for.Quote:
Originally Posted by th62
Buchanan Spokes - Spokes Category
Front spokes arrived from Geoff's this afternoon, so I laced up the wheel. The spokes for the rear wheel are coming from Heiden Tuning, so they probably won't be here for a while. Much better looking than the mags I think.
Spoke wheels rule on a bike .but on a car unless it was vintage 1930s not so much
My '67 MGB would not look right without wire wheels...
Admittedly there were exceptions, just like the old Kreger 5 spoke mag wheels on a select few cars they looked good on others they just looked ridiculous.Quote:
Originally Posted by IntheGroove
I saw an Excalibur kit car that almost looked good with the 26" rims but 22s with a little more sidewall would have looked a lot better. 19" wire spokes and white walls may have made it pop.
A lot depends on the body lines of the car. When it comes to bikes I've seen 1 or 2 with a 16" solid disk rear really set the bikes above the bar, however both sported 21 or 23" fronts on spokes. 18s in the rear and 19s in front for heavy cruisers possibly a 21.
Just watch who you get your spokes from. The thread on the spokes I bought is longer than stock spokes, so when trued there is about 3mm of thread visible between nipple and hub. Probably wouldn't bother most, but I'm not most! If you blow up the picture you'll see what I mean, the dull grey ones are stock. Not happy, I complained to the seller, GeoffsXS , he now says he wont deal with me and sent me a number of abusive texts and emails. Not that I need him, there are a plethora of XS accessory shops around.
You are correct that that is unacceptable. I will not do business with GeoffsXF if I ever need spokes...
Spokes arrived from Heidens this afternoon, so laced up the rear wheel. What a difference, no exposed thread on any spokes.
Some progress shots. Looks much better with spoked wheels. I've taken the carbs off as one diaphragm has been holed, so, I'm tossing up between VM round slides or fixing the BS38 carbs. Not real keen on vacuum carbs, so leaning toward the VM round slides. Damned expensive though at $600. It's come a long way from such a humble beginning.
Changing the diaphragm on the carb that you already have put time and effort is the way to go. The money saved will surely be used for completing the project. Spoked wheels are definitively the way to go. Nice job !