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Steam tractor pulling grain separator along a country road, central Ohio - 1938.
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Steam tractor pulling grain separator along a country road, central Ohio - 1938.
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Overhead crane lifting all 81t of Ae 3/5 10205 at the Zürich SBB workshops, 1941.
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Geez. All I'd like is 5-8t over my JigMil, in far less headroom of 15' 6".........deposit smiley of lament here.
Road roller. Hungary, 1920.
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Ever notice it seems that every guy wore a hat of some type in the early days?
Sure do, it´s so very conforming. My wife contends that it was because it was the simplest way of preventing debris, lice, etc. in the days before obsessive daily showers. I think it´s a silly but harmless fashion statement. During a summer job in my early twenties c1960, a supervisor lectured us with ¨a man is not properly dressed without a hat.¨ I knew it was bs even then. I do wear a billed cap when sailing, or cleared to land late afternoon into the sun, or driving a convertible with the top down. Never when not needed, unlike some of my students during class!
Up until the latter half of the twentieth century, men's hats were a strong indicator of social status. This article...
https://www.press.uchicago.edu/Misc/Chicago/117987.html
provides more detail on the subject.
The line about hat tipping reminded me of a Scientific American article, early seventies?, about a hat-tipping device patent of years past. Gentlemen could perform a hat-tip by squeezing a rubber bulb in a pants pocket. Airline was routed under back of jacket, along neck, behind ear and into hat. Ridiculous in the extreme, but I think it was granted, year unknown. Drawings showed bowler hats.
Captioned as: "Steam tractor burning some oil."
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Robertson tube straightener. I believe this machine is from around the 1940s.
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As if I need another project; salvaged a decent amount of wiring from my building. It's been coiled but should be on spools. They were only 110v circuits and look good as new, so will reuse them as such. Goal of respooling is I have a measuring wheel, to avoid pulling what turns up too short.
I have plenty conveyor skate wheels, a length of good sized angle iron, just need to cobble up axles and adjusting screws.
Any suggestions?
Well there a couple of different ways you can do it with less work. First and easiest way is to count the number of loops and multiple by the diameter of the coils. The second is more accurate but does require a decent quality multimeter. You take a resistance measurement of the coil and then determine what size of wire you have. Then look up the known resistance for the size of wire you have. Once you know the resistance per length of wire you then multiply or divide your resistance by the known resistance for length. I think that’s how the second is done. It’s been a while and would need numbers in front of me to refresh my memory lol. But it is still easily done.
I like the multi-meter solution. It will also start screening broken conductors.
1st priority remains building the straightener to respool the wire for storage an eventual use.
Rather than looking up the resistance/length value for the wire, you'll get better accuracy by measuring resistance of a known length of the subject wire. You'll need a very accurate ohm meter; most are not terribly accurate for measuring small resistances. Very small resistances are normally measured with a current bridge arrangement...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheatstone_bridge
Let:
r = resistance of length l of wire
R = resistance of coil of wire
L = length of coil of wire
then:
r / l = R / L ; assume resistance per unit length is constant over length of wire
or:
L = R / (r / l) = (R / r) * l
Taking the derivative of 'L' wrt to 'r'...
dL = - (R / r^2) * l * dr = - (L / r) * dr
which will allow you to estimate the error in 'L', dL, for a given error in the measurement of 'r', dr.
I knew there was a formula out there somewhere. Thx
What great site! I have a decent [?] meter but I suspect not in keeping with Marv's description.
Solution sounds like to check the coils as they are now; spool them being fed over my measuring machine to know length, and label the resistance results/ length. That should sort failed conductors immediately, and comparing the rest ought to be in a very narrow range. They were only a 110v lighting circuit, 15 60w lamps.
If not good, oh well. Have 13,000 feet of yellow/ brown/ orange for 440v, green/ white/ black for 110v, forgot what is on hand to do 240v, only 2 machines get that.
Again, great site, but its due to the participating members. I appreciate every morsel dispensed of heads up.
The problem with measuring very small resistances is that the resistance of connections becomes so important relative to the resistance one is attempting to measure.
Put your ohmmeter on its lowest scale and, with fingers off the exposed metal on the probes, press the metal tips together. Now, by adjusting the pressure with which you press the tips together, you should be able to change the indicated resistance by a large relative amount.
Keep this in mind when you make your resistance measurements.
I did that with my fingers.
Are resulting figures weight, blood pressure or a grip test?
Sure doesn't appear to be IQ!
when doing tests like this, where the connection is so important, it is good to use alligator clips. to assure a good connection. I have a short pair of red and black cords with a clip on each end. The teeth cut through any surface corrosion on the wire so you get good consistent readings.
Don't forget that there is another set of connections where the meter test leads connect to the meter itself. These are generally banana plugs so wiping occurs with every insertion.
I'm trying to remember the Wheatstone bridge we used in physics lab at college. I seem to remember screw-down connectors for attaching the unknown but it's been a long time.
Rather than the error-filled minefield of resistance measurements, why not do it with weight? Weigh a small piece, weigh the coil and the math is the same as I indicated above.
Accurate scales are available and, if all fails, you can use a balance scale with measured quantities of water as the balance weights.
I have lost track of what is trying to be accomplished here?
Ralph
Which I prefer my first suggested method of counting loops and multiply by the diameter of the loops. Then you can do a ohm test to confirm a length is good to go without breaks.
I meant circumference, thanks for the correction! It was past my bedtime lol.
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Ore unloading dock, looking south. Dock, built in 1908, featured two 10-ton-capacity Hulett unloaders (shown here) built by the Wellman-Seaver-Morgan Co. of Cleveland. - Central Furnaces, 2650 Broadway, east bank of Cuyahoga River, Cleveland, Cuyahoga County, OH
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More: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hulett
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Interior detail of main door and north wall of building 390; camera facing northwest. - Mare Island Naval Shipyard, Forge Shop, Railroad Avenue, southwest corner of Railroad Avenue and Twelfth Street, Vallejo, Solano County, CA.
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<strike>1961</strike> J.I. Case steam tractor.
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Man, how far we've come in 58 years!
Forrest - a '63 model
That is a 1920 model sir.
Not sure on that. Could even be a 190.
The steam tractor photo sparked my imagination, which led me to find this interesting reading about one specific steam tractor, and steam tractors in general.
History and rebuilding process
Case Steam tractors, stories, information, engines for sale
Rebuild
Case Steam Tractor;Fuel Bunkers: J.I.Case, 1912 Case, Steam engine, Steam Tractor, Steam farm tractor, Steam traction engine, J.I. Case Company, Steam Threshing, 75 H.P. Steam Tractor, Old Abe Eagle, Case, Iron Men,Steam Tractor Restoration
Video
Case Video
I find it quite interesting that even with that fair sized hub and all those spokes they still used a style of square drive to get the power to the wheel