Quote Originally Posted by kbalch View Post
When doing the first fill on a new system (as with kitplanes and cars), old fluid is obviously not an issue. I just squeeze the oil can trigger to pump new fluid up through the caliper and lines to the master. Once the master's drain holes are covered, tighten the bleed screw and go on to the next one. When all are done (my Ultima GTR has eight!), top off the master if necessary and it's good to go.

Changing fluid is much the same, though with the added step of removing the old stuff from the master with a turkey baster until all the lines are filled with the new fluid. The only real complication is if you're changing fluid types. In that case, I'd want to do a pressure flush from the master and force the old fluid out from each bleed screw until all the lines are clear. At that point, I'd fill it with the new stuff as if it were a new system.

Ken
thanks for the clarification, for bleeding as the only task I can see how working from the lowest point could have an advantage. maybe I should have used the words fluid flush rather than bleeder?

I am not certain which way the air in the fluid goes with the bug sprayer it may still rise to the highest point. there is a pocket of air that stays in the fluid reservoir. I use a vinyl clear tube and clear glass bottle on the drain side too. Ido remember seeing air bubbles when the air bleeder valve lets( air getting in past the threads) them in while flushing/bleeding but not otherwise.

I will have to watch out for physics professors and see what they can clarify on the matter.

it is great to see how others address the same job and compare ideas