I have a question for the combined wisdom of this group.

One Christmas in the mid 70's I built my dad a "Little Red Wagon" 4 x 8 foot utility trailer.

It was the very first "real" thing I ever designed and built. I was working at a "junk yard" at the time
and also crew for their Drag Race team. I was able to use that shop to fabricate the trailer. Keeping it
secret from my dad.

Mid 60's Ramblers had 13" wheels and tires with front spindles and hubs that were easily bolted to
plates welded to a square steel tube for the axle. There was no demand for them as replacement
parts so there were plenty in the yard. The little trailer has hauled lots of stuff over 50 years since I built it.

Recently, due to my neglect, a wheel bearing failed. The odds of finding a good, 60's Rambler hub are not good.
I prefer to repair this one to keep it as original as possible. Plus, it is a challenge.

On the good hub, the bearing and seal, press fit into a common bore.

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The hub that failed, rubbed against the back of the spindle and ground away the seal
and part of the hub. There is no material remaining to hold a new seal in place.

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I centered the hub and prepared to bore the damage away to begin repair. I cleaned up
that machined section of the hub to center it. Then checked and dialed in final center using
the backside bearing bore

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The damage was limited to the bore affecting the seal. The bearing cup protected that part
of the hub from damage. I was able to clean up the seal area, by boring about 0.132" oversize

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My plan is to make a steel bushing, install it then bore it to match the existing bore.

As I prepare to make the bushing, I see two options.

1) Do I make the bushing OD oversize then heat the hub, freeze the bushing, then press
them together, letting them shrink and expand, to lock them together?
IF yes, the bore is about 2 3/8", how much interference?

OR.

2) Do I make the bushing a little under size and JB Weld it into the bore?


I am leaning toward the JB Weld as quick and easy.

I appreciate any input?