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Thread: 1/32 model train car mold procedure

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    Thanks machiningfool! We've added your Model Train Mold to our Model Making category,
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    Thanks machiningfool! We've added your Rail Truck Pattern to our Model Making category,
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    Here is a part that I made to establish the body or thickness of the part and then I will make the second part of the mold. Bob.1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0467.jpg1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0466.jpg

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    Paul Jones (05-23-2016)

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    These are pictures of the mold ready for the second part for the steps and ends, and also the finished two part mold for the sides, Bob.1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0465.jpg1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0464.jpg1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0468.jpg1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0469.jpg

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    Paul Jones (05-29-2016)

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    Some more molds

    Here is the second part of the molds poured and ready to make a part. Today I will get back to the trucks and program the spring arms for the truck, and am looking for bearing for the trucks, any ideas? Bob.1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0470.jpg1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0471.jpg1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0473.jpg

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    Paul Jones (05-29-2016)

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    I had to check the shape of the spring arm for the trucks, so I used my handy pen tool that is inserted into a collet of my mill to trace the part to compare. I made it to be able to use a store bought ball point pen refill. Bob.

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    Paul Jones (05-29-2016)

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    I poured some parts and they came out good, here are some pictures. Bob.1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0476.jpg1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0475.jpg

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    Bob,
    Thanks for the tip about using a spring loaded pen for doing your part QC. The cast sides, ends and steps look crisp and well made. How do you open-up and clean-up the car window openings? What do you use for paints now that the fine scale Testors “Floquil” line of paints has been discontinued?
    Thank you for your progress report.
    Paul

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    Hi Paul. I cut the flashing out with a knife, cuts easily. I get the paint wherever I can find it, mainly on Ebay. I am using a hard plastic from Bity mold supplies and it seems to be very strong and as strong as the epoxy that I was using. This plastic flows better and fewer bubbles, so I really like it. Thanks, Bob.

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    Well Paul, it wasn't as easy as I thought to cut the flashing out of the windows.
    1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0483.jpg1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0484.jpg1/32 model train car mold procedure-img_0485.jpg Here is something that I had to go through to get the correct thickness of the window frames because of the plastic setting up as I was installing the second part of the mold. The stuff was setting so fast that it made the window frames too thick so I had to machine them down on the mill. This probably wouldn't have happened if I had used the epoxy that I am used to, but I am trying new things. Here are some pictures of the setup on the mill, cutting the inside of the frames for consistent thichness. Bob.

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