Took the first step towards building my shop

[Toolmaker51]

Size comparisons are handy as to relative size. Actual dimensions tougher, as we don't know whether scale is Brassica hirta or Brassica juncea varieties; choices are far wider in referring to bell peppers...

[Frank S]

Size comparisons are handy as to relative size. Actual dimensions tougher, as we don't know whether scale is Brassica hirta or Brassica juncea varieties; choices are far wider in referring to bell peppers...

I could have easily said compared to grains of blasting media ranging from gr#1 through gr #3
A couple of the partials were small enough that a few more cycles bouncing around they could have been embedded in the crown of the piston or worse yet slipped between the piston and the cylinder wall the additional labor alone could have cost him more than the tow, and he knows how aggravated I get when someone knows something has gone wrong but elects to ignore it and try to keep going thinking they might save a buck or 2 when there are other options.

[Frank S]

Found the perfect place to park my little 12x36 Sheldon lathe. the gray cabinet at the opposite end will eventually be relocated to another location out of the van

[jdurand]

If that's what two 100W lights do, maybe I DO have enough light in my wife's new kitchen. She likes it bright, I ordered three 18 W LED lights for that. 3.1 meter ceiling. She'll let me know when we get there.

Now, if they'd open the border so we COULD get there...

[metric_taper]

Frank; Where did you get your UFO high bay fixtures from?
I see them on eBay, but don't know about quality, they seem to differ in heat sinks.
I thought 3/4" conduit was big enough when I wired my garage in 1990, but back then I had TW insulated #12 wires, and pulling in 10 of them was a real workout. But I over wired it for 120 and 240 wall and ceiling outlets. I see the NEC allows 16 THHN #12 s. But I bet that's still a tight fit.

[Frank S]

Frank; Where did you get your UFO high bay fixtures from?
I see them on eBay, but don't know about quality, they seem to differ in heat sinks.
I thought 3/4" conduit was big enough when I wired my garage in 1990, but back then I had TW insulated #12 wires, and pulling in 10 of them was a real workout. But I over wired it for 120 and 240 wall and ceiling outlets. I see the NEC allows 16 THHN #12 s. But I bet that's still a tight fit.

I got them off Ebay from a seller in Delaware the lights are obviously china made as are 90% of all these types of lights even big branded companies like Sylvania GE Osram have a huge percentage of their products made in the PRC
I bought mine on an 80% discount sale which tells me they were either an overstock or an item which was soon to be discontinued.
They may or may not last for a long time if they do, GREAT. if the don't , fine. I'll do like I have had to do with every other type of lighting I've used in the past. replace them.
The light assemblies weighed a little over 4 lbs each or about the same as the domed high bay of the same size did but they have a higher quality offered in the UFO style that weighs 9 lbs each with double the amount of heat sink These would be the ones I will probably be purchasing as I add more lights to the shop. I only bought these first 4 because I wanted to get some lighting up without breaking into my piggy bank at this time.

[Frank S]

Ever since I started the shop project I have had a thought of how to incorporate the tent door into the structure. the tent door some may remember was an 8 1/2 ft high 20 some odd feet long gate like wall I constructed to close off a side between my 2 shop trailers and serve as a door when needed to access the tent from the front side.
So today after digging a hole in the ground then used my plate packer to embed another truck rim to serve as an anchor for a post I wanted to put in the East end of the shop so I could start building a wall there.
I started thinking about the tent door once again. being 8 1/2 feet high it would have meant I could have the wall half way to the top plate almost instantly all I would then have to do would be to insulate it and sheet the inside to protect the insulation after taking a look at it I decided since the sheet metal had been run lengthwise making it horizontal and I want the sheet metal running up and down I decided to stand it on end and trim it to fit the slant of the roof I would still cover nearly half of the proposed wall area just all the way up in one section. plus it was the exact correct width to cover the entire end of the container and the elevated work space above.
never waste time with a grinder or a saw when you have a torch available

I have it clamped in place will have to dig some dirt out of the way before I can plumb it to vertical then weld it in place

[Crusty]

...
never waste time with a grinder or a saw when you have a torch available

A quote that's worth remembering.

But I've found that my stand mounted handheld Milwaukee Bandsaw is so quick to use and fast at metal cutting that it's become my goto tool for small (6") cutting jobs.

[Frank S]

We installed the roof over the stairway today

This picture shows the start of the insulation

[Toolmaker51]

That's exactly what I'd have done.
If I had a backhoe, 100' of chain, an observer, plus a few other necessities....Still trying to graduate beyond Egyptian rollers and pinch bars.