In town we have at least one remaining 2 story work shop. It's a corner lot on a hill. Instead of constructing ramp, access to upper floor is around the corner [uphill]. Been a mechanics shop forever. It's probably always been, but first maybe truck, tractor, or stationary engine clientele - go in to first floor it's clear. I'm guessing 12" or 14" X braced timbers on narrow [not 24"] centers. The uprights, not exactly studs, are big too; every other one is gusseted to the trusses too.
In comparison, my 16 foot ceiling was supported with 15 8" x 8"s, three rows 15 feet apart. The perimeter walls are brick, where eaves terminated 2" x 8" joists and trusses. Finally got rid of entire roof and ignorant 2":12" pitch with fabricated 4":12"s.
I saved part of the original ridge beam. It had lapped & bolted joints with pier washers to make up it's 100' length. It gusseted center posts with mitered timbers, like the secondary beams did.
...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...
Many of the old dairy barns in my area are built in to banks for walk in access to the loft, around here we call, them bank barns. One barn I worked on had access to 3 stories this way. 3rd floor was a built up ramp of dry laid up stone with a ramp bridge over the 2nd story access door. Guys from NYC bought it and were determined to save it. Has not had cows in it in a long time.
Tobacco warehouse. Louisville, Kentucky, circa 1906.
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Regarding the paint, I would guess that it could be either an original dark gray or black enamel finish repainted with a green lacquer finish. That would sometimes cause the lacquer finish to react with the milder enamel finish and cause the green to shrink and make the antique type finish you are seeing. These two finishes are not compatible with each other, [at least in the autobody repair field], The old style Alkyd enamel would sometimes never completely dry, even over years of use. That accounts for the "punky" or soft rubbery style of older enamel finishes if they were not kiln dried or dried under heat lamps. Acrylic lacquer, on the other hand, has a very strong chemistry and, after the quick drying solvents dried out of the finish's surface, the resulting coating is very hard and brittle and will chip easier from rock impacts or other impacts than the softer slower drying solvents in Alkyd enamel.
The other possibility may be that it was restored and painted with an antique appearing "crackle finish" made purposely to appear "crackled" or "split" apart from age.
Last edited by Clockguy; 12-25-2018 at 12:08 PM.
Sidenote: Labs shed 24/7/365, as many water dogs do, but this one has a few other quirks. He audibly yawns at 0-dark-30 in the morning, he sneezes no less than a half dozen times after he yawns himself awake, and he grunts [something like an "OOMPH" sound] if I don't pay attention to him when he nudges my elbow or hand for a pat down!
I audibly yawn [don't all you guys do that?], I have allergies to the AIR in Florida, [only explanation I have for ME sneezing 24/7/365], and, if a pretty lady scratches my back ....... well, we won't go there right now with the sound effects ......
Back to the keyboard overhaul, I decided to remove the top of the keyboard case and check things out. I removed a few phillips screws and popped off all of the keys, carefully lifted the top cover off of the keyboard, and then I gasped ....... which in turn sucked in a few Southern Yellow Pine pollen thingies up my nose and I began to sneeze! After the sneezing fit subsided, I took a close look at what was under my keyboard!
I found an almost solid mat of dog hair and remnants of how many meals and snacks I consumed at the computer desk all intertwined together! I wondered why I had so many sticking keys, yeah, now I am thinking that I was lucky there were even a few keys which were NOT still sticking!
Long story short, I carefully lifted the dog hair mat up off my keyboard innards and dropped it into a trash can. Most of the consumables came along with the mat, that's how thick the area below the outside of the keyboard was matted in dog hair in many areas. Like I said I lifted the dog hair mat off ..... from the QWERTY to the NUMBERS block in one piece. From that point it was a matter of lightly blowing compressed air throughout the keyboard area and making sure there was nothing left inside the "control central" to stick or stop or plug up anything else for the near future.
Bottom line, that photo dates back to 04/18/2013 so the cleaning was well worth the time it took to remove the keyboard cover and keys and do a Spring cleaning on the keyboard. One suggestion though, it's a good idea to take a digital of your keyboard prior to the teardown, it makes it substantially easier on the re-assembly when it comes to some of the seldom used keys. [Without looking, do you know where the "standing pipe" key goes? How about the "Pause/Break" key? Just sayin' ...
Fullsize image: https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/h...w_fullsize.jpgWorkers in the main boiler room of Camp Holabird, MD February 9th, 1919
I bet I know what that guy in front used to be before going to work shoveling coal. How do you like me now drill Sgt?
Never try to tell me it can't be done
When I have to paint I use http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/
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